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Interestingly, while they are aware of the increase in competition through globalisation, the
designers say that as a force, it compels them to be more innovative, trying to keep one-
step ahead of the cheaper products that flood the clothing market. The designers said
that retaining a competitive edge would stand or fall on strong brand recognition, and
that work on their branding as well as the quality of their products are the features that
would ensure a loyal consumer following.
The respondents reiterated that they are successful because they have maintained strong
branding, and also because they are able to price their products accurately, although the
latter is a skill that is honed over time. There are risks involved: by creating a brand and
marketing it extensively, the desired effect of their designs having a higher visibility in the
marketplace serves to invite replication, as Asian operators, clothing retailers or other
designers will note that an identifiable line is doing well, and will begin to copy it. One
respondent said when this occurs, it is futile to waste time and energy analysing it, as this
has become part of the cycle of fashion and the design environment, the solution being to
keep working on innovation and quality.
Peter (Interview, 3/7/06) noted that as a designer, he experiences a considerable
competitive threat from the informal economy; by this, he means women working from
home in the rural areas, making clothing for their immediate locality. He said that these
producers enter his boutique accompanying their own customers, openly making notes of
his designs, and then returning to their premises to copy his unique designs. He said people
have photographed the products shown in the display window from the street.
Peter, whose design partnership serves a customer base made up of African women, said
that not only does competition emanate from the informal sector, but Chinese operators
copy their clothing and sell it at ridiculously low prices: one of their designs was retailing in
a Chinese shop in Durban for R70-00. His response is to create complicated designs using
beading and extremely good fabric, so that the overall difference is clear to consumers;
this is an expensive route to follow, but they are “fortunate that our customers understand
this and they are seeking quality original designs” (Interview, 3/7/06). The growth in Chinese
producers copying African designs is confirmed in the literature by Rogerson (2006), who
argues that the only way to compete is through the use of “expensive fabric and
complicated embellishments” (Rogerson, 2006:22).
Karen said that one of the greatest problems faced by fashion designers is “large retail
chains taking an independent designer’s concept, watering it down, having it
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