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share the space, none showed any interest. It was not because she was charging an
exorbitant rail-charge or wanting a high commission; she felt that the reluctance was due
to “fear and the lack of business and marketing skills that would assist in promoting
themselves in the retail market” (Pursuit, 2006:48).
A micro-case study (see Appendix 2) indicates that price is dictating the purchasing
motivation of retailers and brand managers, even when the merchandise is a localised
brand. While undertaking field research in April 2006, I discovered a range of South African
rugby merchandise being retailed in a clothing shop in Durban, all made in China. The
furore over Standard Bank, the official sponsor for the national one-day Cricket Series in
March 2006, having had all their promotional caps made in China (Masemola, 2006), is a
further example of “price rather than patriotism” prevailing over shopper-behaviour. Even
concern for the local clothing and textile industry does not appear to be a major factor in
the eyes of South African consumers (despite their loyalty to the national sport teams).
This chapter has shown that South Africa’s clothing and textile industries emerged from a
protected environment in 1994 to international competition, and because this sector did
not position itself to face the impact of a globalised trade regime, where price dictates the
market, it has experienced substantial loss of employment. The South African government,
through the imposition of import quotas, is attempting to address the problem, but for the
industry to survive it is vitally important that the manufacturers upgrade not only their
technology, but also labour and management skills.
Some argue that the higher-end, design-intensive market might be a focal point for the
sustainability of the clothing and textile industry. It is the large retailers who are gaining
financially from cheap imports. Although these retailers have encountered severe criticism
for this policy, there is evidence that some retailers are supporting local designers. What is
also apparent is that the designers themselves need to be more proactive in upgrading
their production and business skills, as there are private boutique-owners wishing to support
local content, who experience difficulty in dealing with designers in terms of efficient and
reliable delivery, and consistent quality.
The flood of cheaper apparel into South Africa is not a recent phenomenon; as this
Chapter has shown, in the 1980s, imports were already a concern for the clothing industry.
What is clarified in this Chapter is that the industry has been far too reliant on government
for assistance, especially since the post-1994 environment, when the new ANC-led
government began to shift trade policies in line with WTO recommendations. This Chapter
reflects on various policies implemented by the government in its bid to support the
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