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The flap motor in Figure 1 is the newer design, 1977
and after. The design I’ve seen more commonly, and what
is in my Baron, looks like Figure 2. This R&R (removal and
replacement) will deal with the Figure 2 motor design,
although from the looks of it, the Figure 1 design would be
fairly similar in terms of liberating it from the control cables.
Figure 2
Regardless of which motor design you have, the U-shaped
channel is the flap motors’ home in ABS-type airframes.
The flap motor is held in the U-shaped cavity by four bolts
or screws. Figure 3 shows the underside of the U-shaped
cavity and the top of the landing gear transmission bracket,
with the four bolts going through the bottom sheet metal
and then into the cast base of the flap motor gearbox (this
view is taken from under the pilot seat looking toward the
main cabin door). In the mounted position, the fixed drive
cables (think mechanical speedo meter cable) slide into
the slotted drive shafts of the motor.
allows you to run the flaps with the motor to allow access
to both set screws since they are on opposite sides of the
collar. Loosening one may get it but in case you need to
use the motor to rotate the shaft, doing it with everything
connected seems to be a good approach.
With the knowledge of how everything is attached, my
first order of business was to begin loosening the cables
while the motor remained securely fastened to the airframe
by the four bolts in the bottom. Loosening the cables
began by squirting Corrosion X lubricant on the inner
threads of the flap cable (slightly visible in Figure 4 –
Figure 3
Figure 4 shows the right side of the motor’s drive shaft
and cable as assembled. You can see how tightly things fit
in there. You can also see the top of one of the set screws
(there are two located 180 degrees apart) that needs to be
loosened on the collars on both sides of the motor. Doing
this first, while the motor and cables are fully mounted,
Figure 4
Volume 13 • Number 1 AMERICAN BONANZA SOCIETY 15