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www.bonanza.org<br />

more visible in exposed<br />

cable in Figure 6), then<br />

employing an 11/16" crow<br />

foot wrench (Figure 5) by<br />

hand to begin loosening<br />

the inner locking nut of<br />

the cable. Figure 6 shows the<br />

Figure 5<br />

inside locking nut as well as the one<br />

on the outside after cable removal. If you are lucky, you’ll<br />

be able to loosen the inner cable nut by hand after the<br />

initial release of the first rotation or two. I wasn’t so lucky<br />

and had to rely on additional doses of Corrosion X and<br />

crow foot wrenching by hand. You may be more “tool<br />

creative” than me and come up with another tool that can<br />

get into that small space to get the job done.<br />

After I removed the inner cable nut I noticed that the<br />

cable was still being held in the motor drive shaft by a<br />

locking collar that has two set screws. Figure 7 shows this<br />

locking collar arrangement and why it was important to<br />

line up the collar’s slot with the drive shaft slot to allow<br />

the keyed cable end (Figure 8) to be removed from the<br />

whole affair.<br />

With the collar loosened, I began rotating the collar<br />

while pulling on the flap cable to locate the place<br />

Figure 6<br />

Figure 7<br />

where the collar slot and drive shaft slot line up and<br />

allow the keyed cable to emerge from its home. After<br />

you’ve done one side, the opposite side will seem like<br />

child’s play.<br />

Now that the most tedious part of the extraction<br />

has been completed, I turned my attention to the four<br />

mounting screws on the base of the U-channel portion<br />

of the airframe. After I removed the safety wire there<br />

was enough room <strong>for</strong> a 1/4" drive socket and small box<br />

wrenches to loosen the four bolts and then the flap<br />

motor could be liberated from its location. But wait!<br />

We haven’t dealt with the electrical connections! As a<br />

final step be<strong>for</strong>e extraction, mark the motor’s wires<br />

with tags (A - B - C or 1 - 2 - 3) so you can match each wire<br />

position in the case with the refurbished motor and<br />

its mating wires back on the airframe. A cell phone<br />

camera can be pressed into service <strong>for</strong> additional<br />

visual backup.<br />

Installing the new flap motor is pretty much the reverse<br />

of the removal. Be sure to have your A&P/IA observe and<br />

check your work and (if you’re like me) make him feel<br />

16 AMERICAN BONANZA SOCIETY JANUARY 2013

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