Untitled - Wood Tools

ahead and rip the cladding pieces to To shed water, the mid-caps are
width (47s" in my case) and crosscut beveled on their upper face. Cutting
rhem to Ierrglh (341/2"). Next, cut the these bevels is easiesto do if the midcap
is completely assembled. The
locking rabbetjoints, as explained on
page 47.Then, make each of the two problem is the nvo L-shaped secrions
L-shaped halves by gluing rwo pieces of the mid-cap have to fit around the
ofcladding together.
post, so you can't actually assemble
At this point, you're ready to it until vou're at the iob site.
transport the cladding to thejob site The solution is to glue two pieces
and install it.This is a simple, threestep
process (Claddinga Post,page 42). and then temporarily join
together to form the L-sections,
Just a note here. To ensure that the two L-sections
the porch railings wili align with each with screws. (Frg.
other once they're installed, the face 1, below). Be sure
of the post to which you attach the to keep the screws
first L-shaped section ofcladding is out ofthe path ofthe
important. This face is. in a sense. saw blade. But iust in case, iti
your "true north." The idea is to best to use brass screws.That way,
attach that first L-shaped section to the blade won't get damaged if it
that same relative face on each oost. accidentally nicks one of the screws.
Now you can go ahead and make
Add the tlld-Gcpc
the bevel cuts on the table saw (Fig.
To create a visual "break" between 2). Of course, you'll need to disassen-rble
the mid-caps before installing
the upper and lower cladding, I added
thick mid-caps to the posts. Each them on the posts (Fig.3).After fluing
rrrid-cap is a frame nrade of 1 l/2"- the halves together, simply toenail
thick cedar (Mid- Cap Assembly). Llke thenr to the post (Photo,page 40).
the cladding, the idea is to make rlvo-
L-shaped sections, and then assemble Inctcll Upper Glcddlng
them around the post.
The final stage ofconverring a porch
Once again, making mid-caps that post to a column is to install the
would withstand the weather was upper cladding above the mid-cap.
high on my prioriry list. So this time, It's almost identical to the lower
I used open morrise and tenon joints cladding: 3/+"-thick cedar, locking
to assemble the mid-caps (see page 48 rabbet joints, and L-shaped sections
and detail at right),
that wrap the posts.The only diflerence
is that here, I routed a decorative
chamfer on all four edges.This detail
isn't added to the lower claddings
because trim pieces will cover those
corners once the railings are installed.
MID.CAP ASSEMBLY
72"-wide
morlise,
2Vt" deep
frii;, !
Piece
llth" x2Y4" x81/4"1
ziii,,'iongL------./
Use #8 x 3/a"
bross screws f,o
hold holves logether
In order to cut the bevels on the
top foce of eoch mid-cop, tempororily
ossemble the two unglued
ioints with bross screws.
Once the midcop is ossembled, tilt the
sow blode l0o. Then, ofter ottoching o toll
fence ond feotherboord, moke o beveled
cut on oll four foces of the mid-coo.
To instoll the mid-cop, remove the screws
to seporote it into the two L-shoped sections
ogoin. Then opply exterior glue, fit the sections
together, ond clomp the ioints.
43
lgonKBENCH tr tuNr 2004