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ahead and rip the cladding pieces to To shed water, the mid-caps are width (47s" in my case) and crosscut beveled on their upper face. Cutting rhem to Ierrglh (341/2"). Next, cut the these bevels is easiesto do if the midcap is completely assembled. The locking rabbetjoints, as explained on page 47.Then, make each of the two problem is the nvo L-shaped secrions L-shaped halves by gluing rwo pieces of the mid-cap have to fit around the ofcladding together. post, so you can't actually assemble At this point, you're ready to it until vou're at the iob site. transport the cladding to thejob site The solution is to glue two pieces and install it.This is a simple, threestep process (Claddinga Post,page 42). and then temporarily join together to form the L-sections, Just a note here. To ensure that the two L-sections the porch railings wili align with each with screws. (Frg. other once they're installed, the face 1, below). Be sure of the post to which you attach the to keep the screws first L-shaped section ofcladding is out ofthe path ofthe important. This face is. in a sense. saw blade. But iust in case, iti your "true north." The idea is to best to use brass screws.That way, attach that first L-shaped section to the blade won't get damaged if it that same relative face on each oost. accidentally nicks one of the screws. Now you can go ahead and make Add the tlld-Gcpc the bevel cuts on the table saw (Fig. To create a visual "break" between 2). Of course, you'll need to disassen-rble the mid-caps before installing the upper and lower cladding, I added thick mid-caps to the posts. Each them on the posts (Fig.3).After fluing rrrid-cap is a frame nrade of 1 l/2"- the halves together, simply toenail thick cedar (Mid- Cap Assembly). Llke thenr to the post (Photo,page 40). the cladding, the idea is to make rlvo- L-shaped sections, and then assemble Inctcll Upper Glcddlng them around the post. The final stage ofconverring a porch Once again, making mid-caps that post to a column is to install the would withstand the weather was upper cladding above the mid-cap. high on my prioriry list. So this time, It's almost identical to the lower I used open morrise and tenon joints cladding: 3/+"-thick cedar, locking to assemble the mid-caps (see page 48 rabbet joints, and L-shaped sections and detail at right), that wrap the posts.The only diflerence is that here, I routed a decorative chamfer on all four edges.This detail isn't added to the lower claddings because trim pieces will cover those corners once the railings are installed. MID.CAP ASSEMBLY 72"-wide morlise, 2Vt" deep frii;, ! Piece llth" x2Y4" x81/4"1 ziii,,'iongL------./ Use #8 x 3/a" bross screws f,o hold holves logether In order to cut the bevels on the top foce of eoch mid-cop, tempororily ossemble the two unglued ioints with bross screws. Once the midcop is ossembled, tilt the sow blode l0o. Then, ofter ottoching o toll fence ond feotherboord, moke o beveled cut on oll four foces of the mid-coo. To instoll the mid-cop, remove the screws to seporote it into the two L-shoped sections ogoin. Then opply exterior glue, fit the sections together, ond clomp the ioints. 43 lgonKBENCH tr tuNr 2004
A porch railing is required by most building codes. Therein lies a dilemma: How do you construct a protective barrier that looks and feels more like a friendly leaning rail? This cedar railing does that well. As you can see in the Photo at left, it has a simple, straightforward design. Combined with some simple trim pieces, the railing integrates quite nicely with the porch columns. Rclllng Borlcc The Ilhstraionbelow provides a quick overview of the railing. Note how the upper and lower rails (2x4$ are connected by 2x2 balusters.A 2x6 cap provides the crowning touch. Rails - Cut the rafu to length to match the distance between the columns. As a decorative detail, I routed a 1/2" charnfer in the bottom edges ofthe upper rail and top edges of the lower ran Qop RaiI Detail). Balusters -As for the balusters, it's just a matter of cutting them to length. Here, routing a 1/q" chamfer on all four edgss helps to "soften" the look of the balusters. The top and bottom ends ofeach baluster are fastened to the rails with a screw and Upper Clcdding Bweled Edge RAITING ASSEMBIY RoilCop (172" x 5" x length of roil minus ll4"l Mid-Cop ._.:.:.:.:.:.:.: #8 x21h" Deck Screw-: Decorqtive Posl Assembly (se pge45l TTop Roil Deck ftrew Bolusbrs llr/2" xlVz" x23th"l Boliom Roil llthx3th" x length to suit! r/t" chombr hn chomfur ET 5 ilAn 3l WI 8d golv. noil keeps bolusbr fiom 44 woRKBENcH tr IUNE 2004
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Page 18 and 19: Are All Composites CREATED EQUAT? M
Page 20 and 21: REDWOOD STAINIESS STEET A Conventio
Page 22: Which one rs right for you? Colors
Page 25 and 26: One drarnatic improvement you can m
Page 27: 4x4 Pressure-Treobd Post Typically,
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Page 33 and 34: '/ OPEN MORTISE&TENON Strength, dur
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Page 37 and 38: $a- T;--a)l:.a 4?T-'-.-t;7a ;;*'1"f
Page 39 and 40: 6" Random-Orbit Sanders: SAME TN IU
Page 41 and 42: AA molded polm grip directly over t
Page 44 and 45: Construction Detoils Overall Dimens
Page 46 and 47: ends of the middle rails.While you'
Page 48: PANET ASSEMBTY provides a quick, ac
Page 51 and 52: -1 BACK stATS (2x231 SEAT STATS (2x
Page 53 and 54: "i. sF!|.!i*#tr{.4!|lititlltli
Page 55 and 56: Construction Detqils Overall Dimens
Page 57 and 58: ossembling the STORAGE TRAYS With t
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Page 61 and 62: V) Z o = o- o COOKBOOK HOTDER Anoth
Page 63 and 64: CRAFTSMANSH IP CLOSE-UP the bygone

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