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Untitled - Wood Tools

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ATo cuf o scorf<br />

ioinf, the router<br />

is mounted to o<br />

sled thot rides<br />

on o shop-built<br />

iig with bpered<br />

sides. Use o &,o"<br />

l/2" skoight bit<br />

or spirol bit to<br />

cut the wide,<br />

beveled foces<br />

of fte ioint.<br />

SCARFJOINTS<br />

Occasionally, it would be nice to have a board "stretcher."<br />

The fascia and skirt boards on the porch, for example,<br />

are over 20 feet long.We couldnt buy boards that long,<br />

so we did the next best thing - we used a scarfjoint<br />

to make one long board from two shorter ones.<br />

Strong & Simple - Compared to many joins, a scarf<br />

joint is quite a bit simpler.The basic idea is to take two fullthickness<br />

boards and cut a bevel in the face of each one<br />

to form a thin "feather" of material on the end.When put<br />

together, these beveled faces create such a large glue surface<br />

that the result is an extremely strongjoint.<br />

Build,Then Cut - To make a scarfjoint, you'll need<br />

to build a simple jig (Box on page 5|.This jig allows you<br />

to cut the beveled faces in the boards with a handheld<br />

router and 2 l/2" 5g6ight bit.<br />

The jig shown here is set up to create a scarfjoint<br />

with an 8:1 ratio. In other words, the board will have 8"<br />

ofglue suface for every 1" ofboard thickness.<br />

Adjust the Cutting Depth - After mounting the<br />

router to the sled, the first step is to adjust the depth of<br />

cut.To do this, place the router directly over the end of<br />

the base of the jig.Then, set the bit depth so it just grazes<br />

the edge of the base (Fig 1a).<br />

Even though the bit is set at maximum depth, I<br />

wouldnt recommend cutting the bevel in one pass.You'd<br />

have to "hog" offtoo much material, which would put<br />

a lot of stress on the bit. Instead, the idea is to make a series<br />

ofprogressively deeper passes to produce a thin "feather"<br />

of material on the end (Figs. l-j below).<br />

Make the First Cut - fb accomplish this, set the<br />

workpiece a few inches back from the end of the jig,<br />

and clamp it firmly in place. Make sure it's butted against<br />

FIRSI Clomp<br />

wo_rkpiece obout 3"<br />

FIRSt Reposition<br />

workpiece obout<br />

holfwoy toword<br />

end of iig 2<br />

shollow bevel on<br />

foce of workpiece<br />

SECOND: Cut o<br />

deeper bevel<br />

on second poss<br />

Align workpiece<br />

flush with end of<br />

iig, then moke<br />

o finol poss<br />

A After odiusting the depth of cut<br />

(Fig. Ia), clomp the workpiece<br />

in the iig. Then moke o series of<br />

posses io rout o shollow bevel.<br />

A Tc increose the size of the bevel,<br />

reposition the workpiece closer to<br />

the end of the iig ond moke o<br />

second series of posses.<br />

A Now olign the boord with the<br />

end of the iig ond moke the finol<br />

posses. This produces o "feother"<br />

of moteriol ot the beveled end.<br />

50<br />

woRKBENCH tr JUNE 2004

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