Nuts & Volts
Nuts & Volts
Nuts & Volts
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READER-TO-READER QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS<br />
the same time. Maybe switches<br />
would work<br />
#1 To safely and efficiently use your<br />
36 volt battery "pack" to run an inverter,<br />
you might consider a DC to DC<br />
converter. "Solar Converters, Inc."<br />
(519-824-5272) www.solarconvert<br />
ers.com/ sells Model EQ 12/36-50<br />
that puts out 12 volts regulated DC at<br />
50 amps from a 36 volt DC input. Also<br />
check out www.jameco.com Catalog<br />
Part #217269CC which takes 19-36<br />
volts DC input and puts out 12 volts<br />
@ 12.5 amps.<br />
Bob Lindstrom, Broomfield, CO<br />
#2 Yes, you can wire the six batteries<br />
in series-parallel to obtain 12<br />
volts with lots of amps. You can<br />
either parallel three sets of two batteries<br />
(in series) each, or else connect<br />
in series two sets of three batteries<br />
(in parallel) each.<br />
Yes, you can use some form of<br />
multipole switching to change from a<br />
36V array (series) to a 12V one<br />
(series-parallel).<br />
What you will not be able to do is<br />
to use the two voltages at the same<br />
time: The switch will be in either the<br />
“36V” position or in the “12V” one.<br />
Also, to charge the batteries the<br />
switch should be in one of the two<br />
positions (according to the charger’s<br />
voltage and current). To prevent accidents,<br />
you will have to add one pole<br />
to your switch so that the charger<br />
won’t be connected if the batteries<br />
are in the “wrong” configuration.<br />
And, of course, the switch should<br />
be rated for the system’s voltage and<br />
current. To open a DC circuit – even at<br />
moderate voltages like 36V – is no<br />
easy job.<br />
If you want to run your 36V loads<br />
and an inverter simultaneously, you<br />
should get an inverter that runs<br />
on 36V. It will be not only easier to<br />
connect, but it will use thinner wires<br />
and be more efficient.<br />
Ernesto Cerfoglio<br />
Buenos Aires, Argentina<br />
[#1063 - January 2006]<br />
I have a digital caliper. I would<br />
like it to display measurements in<br />
a third way besides inches and<br />
millimeters. Are there digital calipers<br />
that have generic microcontrollers<br />
that could be reprogrammed or<br />
replaced with my own programming<br />
If one of them has something like a<br />
generic PIC in it, then maybe ...<br />
Many digital calipers have a data<br />
port hidden under a small cover. You<br />
can interface the caliper to a desktop<br />
computer using an appropriate cable<br />
(ex. Mitutoyo Connecting Cable<br />
#905409 www.mitutoyo.com) and a<br />
converter box (ex. Smart Cable #200-<br />
50R9F www.qualityonsale.com). This<br />
can be an expensive proposition<br />
given the cost of the cable is around<br />
$40.00 and the cost of the converter<br />
box is around $170.00. The good<br />
news is that the converter box information<br />
comes with a sample Qbasic<br />
program that illustrates how to read<br />
the caliper value and display it on the<br />
screen. Good luck.<br />
Bill Ryder<br />
Victoria, MN<br />
[#1062 - January 2006]<br />
I have searched for the Data<br />
Sheet on TI's TMS9916NL chip. Any<br />
help would be appreciated.<br />
#1 The TMS9916 is from Texas<br />
Instruments, and it's part of their<br />
9900 series (circa 1978). The 9916 is a<br />
Magnetic Bubble Memory controller.<br />
The following link provides a<br />
brief discussion on the part and its<br />
use: www.decodesystems.com/tib<br />
0203.html<br />
Briefly, Bubble memory was the<br />
first attempt to create RAM that<br />
would retain its data after power was<br />
removed; a sort of very early Flash<br />
memory.<br />
Joe O'Brien<br />
Ladera Ranch, CA<br />
#2 I contacted TI tech support; they<br />
were very helpful and found this 25<br />
year old data sheet, which I have<br />
posted at: http://us.share.geocities.<br />
com/russlk/tms9916.pdf.<br />
Russell Kincaid<br />
Milford, NH<br />
[#2061 - February 2006]<br />
Last Fall, we put up a new<br />
RadioShack long range VHF/UHF<br />
VU-190 antenna and rotator.<br />
Correction<br />
There was an error in the parts<br />
list of my answer (in the January<br />
issue) to the Aquarium pump turn<br />
off issue. The value of R1 should be<br />
330K, not 3.3K.<br />
The corrected parts list:<br />
C1 1000 uF 25V<br />
D1 1N4001<br />
K1 Omron G6RN-1-DC12 (Mouser<br />
P/N 653-G6RN-1-DC12)<br />
Q1 2N6427 NPN Darlington<br />
(Mouser P/N 512-2N6427)<br />
R1 330K<br />
R2 680K<br />
S1 Push button momentary switch<br />
Ed Schick<br />
Harrison, NY<br />
Around April or May, I noticed<br />
that the reception for the higher<br />
numbered UHF channels seemed to<br />
be getting worse. During Summer,<br />
this problem seemed to worsen.<br />
Thinking about it carefully now,<br />
last Fall we got good to fair reception<br />
on channels 36 and 29 and excellent<br />
reception on channels 23, 19, and 17.<br />
Now it has changed to fair reception<br />
on channel 23 and passable on 17. All<br />
the others are basically unusable.<br />
Clearly, something has changed as<br />
the temperature and weather are<br />
similar now to when the antenna was<br />
installed.<br />
VHF reception has not changed<br />
since installation and remains very<br />
good.<br />
#1 You have a bad case of high<br />
frequency loss. It is important that<br />
you start methodically checking only<br />
one suspected part at a time. Here<br />
are possible trouble spots: You<br />
might have a bad "F" connector at the<br />
matching transformer, or the RTV<br />
rubber has developed a hairline crack<br />
around the coax connector or around<br />
the twin lead pigtail on the transformer,<br />
letting in water. Silicone does<br />
not stick very well to most plastics.<br />
Also, with binoculars, look at the<br />
connections at the antenna terminal<br />
block and the antenna element insulators.<br />
Is there any debris such as<br />
cobwebs, bird droppings, etc How<br />
old is the coax If you used the old<br />
stuff, dirt or corrosion at the "F"<br />
March 2006 101