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A Writer's Decisi<strong>on</strong>s 273<br />

been built by children <strong>on</strong> a beach. Architecturally (I later<br />

learned) it was in the Sudanese style; all these years, children<br />

<strong>on</strong> beaches have been building in the Sudanese style. To<br />

linger in Djenné s ancient square at dusk was a high moment<br />

of our trip.<br />

The next two days were no less rich. One was spent driving<br />

into—and back out of—Dog<strong>on</strong> country. The Dog<strong>on</strong>, who<br />

live <strong>on</strong> an escarpment not easily reached by outsiders, are<br />

prized by anthropologists for their animist culture and cosmology<br />

and by art collectors for their masks and statues, and<br />

the few hours that we spent climbing around their villages<br />

and watching a masked dance gave us too brief a glimpse of a<br />

society that was far from simple. The sec<strong>on</strong>d day was spent in<br />

Mopte, a vibrant market town <strong>on</strong> the Niger that we liked<br />

enormously and also left too so<strong>on</strong>. But we had a date in Timbuktu<br />

and a chartered plane to take us there.<br />

Obviously there's far more to say about Mali than is jammed<br />

into those four paragraphs—many scholarly books have been<br />

written about the Dog<strong>on</strong> culture and the Niger River peoples.<br />

But this wasn't an article about Mali; it was about a quest for a<br />

camel caravan. Therefore a decisi<strong>on</strong> had to made about the<br />

larger shape of the piece. My decisi<strong>on</strong> was to get across Mali as<br />

fast as possible—to explain in the barest number of sentences<br />

what route we took and what was important about the places<br />

where we stopped.<br />

At such moments I ask myself <strong>on</strong>e very helpful questi<strong>on</strong>:<br />

"What is the piece really about?" (Not just "What is the piece<br />

about?") F<strong>on</strong>dness for material you've g<strong>on</strong>e to a lot of trouble to<br />

gather isn't a good enough reas<strong>on</strong> to include it if it s not central<br />

to the story you've chosen to tell. Self-discipline bordering <strong>on</strong><br />

masochism is required. The <strong>on</strong>ly c<strong>on</strong>solati<strong>on</strong> for the loss of so<br />

much material is that it isn't totally lost; it remains in your <strong>writing</strong><br />

as an intangible that the reader can sense. Readers should

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