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A Writer's Decisi<strong>on</strong>s 277<br />

some of the anxiety out of the act of <strong>writing</strong>, enabling you to<br />

break your material into manageable chunks and to take <strong>on</strong>e<br />

chunk at a time. The total task seems less formidable, and panic<br />

is staved off.<br />

At the Azalai Hotel, where we appeared to be the <strong>on</strong>ly<br />

guests, we asked Mohammed Ali how many tourists were in<br />

Timbuktu to greet the salt caravan.<br />

"Six," he said. "The six of you."<br />

"But..." Something in me didn't want to finish the sentence.<br />

I took a different approach. "I d<strong>on</strong>'t understand what<br />

this word 'Azalai' means. Why is it called the Azalai Salt<br />

Caravan?"<br />

"That's the word the French used," he said, "when they<br />

organized the caravan and all the camels made the trip<br />

together <strong>on</strong>ce a year, around the beginning of December."<br />

"What do they do now?" several voices asked.<br />

"Well, when Mali got its independence they decided to let<br />

the traders bring their salt caravans to Timbuktu whenever<br />

they wanted to."<br />

Mali got its independence in 1960. We were in Timbuktu<br />

for an event that hadn't been held in 27 years.<br />

The last sentence is a small bomb dropped into the story. But<br />

it is allowed to speak for itself—just the facts, please—without<br />

comment. I didn't add an exclamati<strong>on</strong> point to notify readers<br />

that it was an amazing moment. That would have spoiled their<br />

own pleasure of discovery. Trust your material.<br />

My wife, am<strong>on</strong>g others, was not surprised. We took the<br />

news calmly: old travel hands who have faith that they will<br />

find their camel caravan <strong>on</strong>e way or another. Mainly our<br />

reacti<strong>on</strong> was <strong>on</strong>e of amazement that the can<strong>on</strong>s of truth-inadvertising<br />

had been so brazenly disregarded. Mohammed Ali

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