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A Writer's Decisi<strong>on</strong>s 283<br />

own. We had been warned that Sahara nights were cold and<br />

had brought sweaters al<strong>on</strong>g. I put <strong>on</strong> my sweater, rolled up in<br />

a blanket, which slightly softened the hardness of the desert,<br />

and fell asleep surrounded by an immense stillness. An hour<br />

later I was awakened by an equally immense racket—our<br />

Bedouin family had brought in their herd of goats and their<br />

camels for the night. Then all was quiet again.<br />

In the morning I noticed paw prints in the sand next to<br />

my blanket. Mohammed Ali said that a jackal had come by to<br />

clean up the leftovers from our dinner—of which, as I<br />

recalled the chicken, there must have been quite a few. But I<br />

didn't hear a thing. I was too busy dreaming that I was<br />

Lawrence of Arabia.<br />

[END]<br />

A crucial decisi<strong>on</strong> about a piece of <strong>writing</strong> is where to end it.<br />

Often the story will tell you where it wants to stop. This ending<br />

was not the <strong>on</strong>e I originally had in mind. Because the goal of our<br />

trip was to find a salt caravan I assumed that I would have to<br />

complete the ancient cycle of trade: to describe how we<br />

returned to Timbuktu and saw the salt being unloaded and<br />

bought and sold in the market. But the nearer I got to <strong>writing</strong><br />

that final secti<strong>on</strong>, the more I didn't want to write it. It loomed as<br />

drudgery, no fun for me or for the reader.<br />

Suddenly I remembered that I was under no obligati<strong>on</strong> to<br />

the actual shape of our trip. I didn't have to rec<strong>on</strong>struct everything.<br />

The real climax of my story was not finding the salt caravan;<br />

it was finding the timeless hospitality of the people who live<br />

in the Sahara. Not many moments in my life have matched the<br />

<strong>on</strong>e when a family of nomads with almost no possessi<strong>on</strong>s offered<br />

to share their dinner. Nor could any other moment distill more<br />

vividly what I had come to the desert to find and what all those<br />

Englishmen had written about—the nobility of living <strong>on</strong> the<br />

edge.

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