Rude Awakenings - Forest Sangha Publications

^0 DA R K A N G E L 06a cycle rickshaw–wallah who pulled up beside us to offer a lift. We saidno but he kept pestering us. Then several young children came running,with their small hands outstretched, and crying out in high-pitchedvoices, “One rupee! One rupee!” As we turned into the lane leading tothe Thai vihara, our intended destination, there was a sadhu sittingagainst a low wall. He had long dreadlocks tied in a gigantic knot, hisface, arms, and legs were daubed with white, and he was wrapped incloths of a variety of bright colours. Leaning by his side was a trident,festooned with red rags. He was the most impressive looking sadhu wehad seen, and I thought he would make a great picture. I got my cameraout and pointed at it, then at him, so to ask his permission. Hisresponse was immediate. He sat bolt upright and barked out, “One hundredand twelve rupees and eighteen paisa.” Evidently he had also mettourists before.A J A H N S U C I T T OPast Nari and Nur Sarai, we joined the road that comes from Patna toNalanda. In the time of the Buddha it must have been the main routebetween Savatthi, the capital of Kosala, and Rajagaha, capital of Magadha.Along this road pilgrims would have hurried to the holy places farthersouth, or to stay in the great university of Nalanda, sometimes foryears on end, copying sutras and studying the Dhamma. But to me,Nalanda was principally the place where there was a Thai monasterywhere I could rest my right foot and let it heal. I determined to do as littlewalking as possible. Wat Thai Nalanda would be an excellent placeto recuperate.Beyond its surrounding railings loomed a four- or five-storeyed buildingcapped with a long roof, down the ridges of which gigantic stylizedserpentsstretched.Ourislandof peacewassurroundedbyswayingyoungtrees that beckoned like nymphs...but at the gate we were welcomed bythe hounds of Hell. The manic clamour of the temple dogs produced2 0 1