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Rude Awakenings - Forest Sangha Publications

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^0 G I F T S 06along at a steady pace with the kilometre posts counting off the distanceto Bodh Gaya. The ease and the beauty combined with the steady walkingto quiet and centre my mind. We were carrying so little since therobbery that at times it felt like I was floating. As we made our way, wewere passing the usual assortment of pedestrians, bicycles, bullockcarts, and wandering cows. There were few vehicles—just the occasionalthree-wheeled taxi carrying pilgrims and tourists between BodhGaya and railway station in Gaya.Eventually we caught sight of the Bodhi Temple up ahead; the top ofits intricately carved tower just showing above the trees. The BodhiTemple, built on the site of the Buddha’s enlightenment, is the centreof Bodh Gaya, most of which is Buddhist temples, viharas, and otherplaces for visitors to stay. The Burmese Vihara was beside the road intotown, and it was the first building we came to. We turned in at the biggates and asked for Katie.I had been introduced to Katie the previous summer in England. Shewas about to leave for India to help with a course in Buddhist studiesorganized by an American university, and she had invited us to stay withthem.WewaitedatthegateforherwhileseveralyoungWesterntravellerscame and went. Then Katie arrived to collect us. About our age with longlight brown hair, an English rose complexion, and a flowing skirt, she wasalso the first person from home and the first woman we had really met fortwo months. I was slightly mesmerized as we trooped along behind her.She took us to a modern block of accommodation behind the old vihara,climbing up two flights of outside stairs to come out onto a wide verandaon the roof. There were three rooms up there facing a magnificent viewacross Bodh Gaya. They were the best rooms in the vihara. They also hadthe only hot showers in Bodh Gaya and the first we had seen since comingto India. Our room had been Katie’s; she had vacated it for us.We sat on the veranda enjoying the view while we were broughttea—in a teapot, with the milk in a jug as in England. There was somefood too: including very English-looking slices of cake. Katie seemed2 6 7

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