Rude Awakenings - Forest Sangha Publications

^0 S E C O N D M O O N 06journey, things began to feel better, and they brought us some food.Probably remembering how British visitors were treated when he wasyoung, the father offered us tea in proper English teacups along with aplate of biscuits. When these quickly disappeared, he sent his son forsome toasted bread rolls. The effort was well intentioned but providedinadequate sustenance for walkers. It felt inevitable that we were notgoing to get enough; it was in keeping with the mood of the place.That was the second day we had too little to eat. It was well past noonby the time we left and too late to do anything about it. At least we leftwith heartfelt thanks from both the father and son for our visit. Wereturned to the railway and walked on. Looking back, I can see it wasnot surprising that I found it all so difficult, with the dysentery, the lackof food, and the heat. At the time, though, I was blaming it on my surroundings,my companion, and, most of all, the Indians we met as wewalked along. I was short tempered, and it felt like they were all deliberatelymaking things difficult for me.It was only a few miles from there to Captainganj, where our branchline met another, and where we would have to leave it. The railway line,which had until then been running due south, began to turn, and as wecame round the bend we could see Captainganj station with a steamtrain pulling out on the other line. From here we had to head west andsouth to reach Kushinagar the next day. We left the railway line beforethe station and cut across some fields looking for a small river I had spottedon the map. This led slightly more directly to where we wanted togo than did the main road, and I thought it would make more pleasantwalking. We reached the road first, and as we walked along it lookingfor the river we stopped an educated-looking man. I guessed that hemight know some English and would be able to direct us.Asking directions in India is not as straightforward as at home: hereit was more like an elaborate game of chess. Mine was the usual simpleWestern opening gambit. “Excuse me, can you direct us to the river?”“I am asking you first why it is you are wanting the river?”7 4