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From a photograph from the Service des Beaux-Artsan Maroc.Rabat.Gate of the Kasbah of the Oudayas.houses on the slope outside the old Arabsettlement. Of the Arab town itself,above reed stockades and brown walls,only a minaret and a few Hat roofs arevisible. Under the walls drowse theusual gregarious Lazaruses; others, temporarilyresuscitated, trail their graveclothesafter a line of camels and donkeystoward the olive-gardens outside thetown.The way to Rabat is long and difficult,and there is no time to visit El-Ksar,though its minaret beckons so alluringlyabove the fruit-orchards; so we stop forluncheon outside the walls, at a canteenwith a corrugated iron roof where skinny5