Complete (13 MB) - Chris Alston's Chassisworks

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The balljoint rubber boot is installed in theballjoint housing first. Because the boot fitstight in the housing, installing it before theballjoint is easier. Drop the boot into themachined bore in the balljoint housing.Work your way around the boot’s edge,pushing it down into the bore with yourfingers. You can also use a blunt tool to dothis.During the assembly process we are goingto coat all of the threaded assemblies withan anti-seize compound to prevent thethreads from being damaged and aiddisassembly in the future.Put a thin layer of anti-seize on the balljointthreads.917703 Page 7
The balljoint is then screwed into the balljointhousing as far as possible by hand. Makeabsolutely sure that the thread startsstraight. This is a little tricky. The threadson the balljoint are easy to cross thread.Use the balljoint wrench included with yourkit to tighten the balljoint. Tighten it until it isfully seated against the balljoint housing.The force required can be over 150 lb-ft oftorque. Be careful not to scratch the A-arm.Repeat this for the passenger side lower A-arm.One convenient method for holding the A-arm while installing the balljoint is totemporarily install the A-arm on the frame.The upper A-arms will be assembled next.Although they are very similar, they are notidentical. The letter “D” or “P” on theballjoint housing identifies which side of thecar the A-arm installs in.Page 8 917703
Page 1 and 2: READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS COMPLETELY AN
Page 3 and 4: CONGRATULATIONSYou have purchased t
Page 5 and 6: DISCLAIMER OF WARRANTYPurchasers re
Page 7: Installing SuspensionNote: The phot
Page 11 and 12: Thread the balljoint in as far as p
Page 13 and 14: Next, chase the threads in the lowe
Page 15 and 16: If you have to remove the lower A-a
Page 17 and 18: Next, install the shock simulator a
Page 20: With the cotter pin installed, use
Page 26 and 27: Install the tie rod end in the stee
Page 28 and 29: First, check and record the camber
Page 30 and 31: Next, set the bar level and tighten
Page 32 and 33: Next, you can final assemble the ti
Page 34 and 35: The caps are held in place with the
Page 36 and 37: With both bushings on the bar, brin
Page 38 and 39: Next, slide the link eyebolt onto t
Page 41 and 42: Screw the spring seat adjuster onto
Page 43 and 44: Install the lower shock spud first.
Page 45 and 46: Add a drop of Loctite to the thread
Page 47 and 48: Pack the outer wheel bearing as you
Page 49 and 50: Next, install the Wilwood brake cal
Page 51 and 52: Use a 3/8” wrench to tighten the
Page 53 and 54: Move the spindle to full right lock
Page 55 and 56: Insert one urethane bushing into ea
Page 57 and 58: These optional stainless steel "spu
Page 59 and 60:
Installing Manual Transmission,Clut
Page 61 and 62:
Item 5916-F20-03 Turbo 400, 200-4R,
Page 63 and 64:
After you remove the engine, place
Page 65 and 66:
Use vise grip pliers and an end wre
Page 67 and 68:
Disconnect the clamps that attach t
Page 69 and 70:
Remove the bolts that attach the en
Page 71 and 72:
You need three people; one to opera
Page 73 and 74:
Lower the clip to the ground and pu
Page 75 and 76:
This is the correct orientation of
Page 77 and 78:
Place the top part of the mid and r
Page 79 and 80:
Install the lower half of the rear
Page 81 and 82:
Measure from the lip on the rocker
Page 83 and 84:
Attach the stock hook rod to the pa
Page 85 and 86:
Install two 1/2” self-locking set
Page 87 and 88:
Slide the splined end of the u-join
Page 89 and 90:
This is a photo of the completed in
Page 91 and 92:
Drill a 1/8” hole centered in the
Page 93 and 94:
Drill the remaining rivet holes sta
Page 95 and 96:
Installing HeadersSpecial Note: We
Page 97 and 98:
Installing SubframeConnectorsThe su
Page 99 and 100:
Once you have all the bolts removed
Page 101 and 102:
The spring clips can be just as tri
Page 103 and 104:
Slide a 3/8 inch flat washer over t
Page 105 and 106:
Page 104 917703
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Complete (13 MB) - Chris Alston's Chassisworks

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