Smorgasboarder_23_winter_2014

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PHOTOS: TIPS & ADVICE LEFT: Clarrie Bouma. RIGHT: A high shutter speed means sharper images. If you want all this detail, just do it. 1. Turn the camera on and remove the lens cap 2. Make sure the memory card has been formatted. CAMERA SETTINGS For fast action sports the auto setting isn’t ideal. Even using the sports setting has its limitations as this mode generally shoots at a shutter speed of 1/500th. With a 300mm lens, a minimum 1/1000th shutter speed will result in sharper images. The shutter priority setting tells the camera to shoot at the shutter speed selected and it then adjusts the aperture or f stop as determined by the available light. This is a useful setting and normally gives great results but it may mean less consistency throughout a sequence of shots. I shoot exclusively in manual mode. I, rather than the camera, determine what the end result will be. Here’s what I commonly do when I am setting up my camera with a 300mm lens, though it does vary considerably depending on conditions and what I am trying to achieve. Some are obvious but still worth mentioning: 3. Set the White Balance to the appropriate setting (cloud, sunshine etc.) 4. Set shutter speed to 1/1000th 5. Set the aperture to f8 (a useful starting point though it will change depending on the prevailing light) 6. Set the ISO to 200 (another useful starting point but it will vary depending on light) 7. Set autofocus to “continuous” meaning the camera will autofocus continually during a burst 8. Take a camera reading on both some white water and an unbroken wave face. Adjust the aperture (and ISO if required) to an appropriate setting roughly halfway between those two readings. Avoid using the maximum aperture (lowest f stop). Experience will show you what ISO setting your camera can go to before the "noise" level becomes a problem. 9. Take a few sample shots and have a look at what they come out like. The histogram view function is useful here. MORE TIPS When you anticipate a good move coming up, depress the shutter halfway so the autofocus is locked in correctly before you actually start shooting. A lens convertor is useful but they do reduce the light getting through to the sensor. A 1.4X convertor is fi ne but a 2X one is of limited value. Always shoot in RAW format. The jpg format compresses image data and once compressed in the camera, that lost data can never be recovered. Bigger lenses like a 600mm f4 lens are appealing but expensive, around $6,000 secondhand. I’d be lucky to use mine 20% of the time. They are very heavy and require a stable tripod which limits how many lenses you can lug around. Framing is definitely more challenging and you are compelled to use an even faster shutter speed hence requiring more light. I have only touched on what is a complex topic. The best advice I can give is to get a camera and start shooting because the more you shoot the better you will get. www.sandonpointphotos.com 36 SMORGASBOARDER | AUTUMN/WINTER <strong>2014</strong>
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Page 3 and 4: HANDCRAFTED IN AUSTRALIA Riley Bals
Page 5 and 6: WATER CRAFT ACCESSORIES Introducing
Page 7 and 8: EXTREMES Surfing is all about fun,
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Page 11 and 12: www.canna.com AUTUMN/WINTER 2014 |
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Page 21 and 22: Adam Neilson leaves the water... An
Page 23 and 24: READER PHOTO FEST Regular contribut
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Page 29 and 30: A beardy man getting some shade on
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Page 33 and 34: AUTUMN/wiNTer 2014 | SMORGASBOARDER
Page 35: photography (and video) and the DIG
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PHOTO BY WALTER JOHNSON IT'S ALL AB
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For surfers, by surfers - support y
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The search begins with Scoot. Whate
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Smorgasboarder_23_winter_2014

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