Eatdrink #73 September/October 2018

14 | September/October 2018
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
V Spot, the direction of the Rhino
changed under the new chef.
Wolwowicz is also pro-active in
the local food scene and among a
small group of local chefs who wield
unprecedented influence, and believes
that part of his responsibility is to
educate customers about the four
pillars of sustainability: cultural
vibrancy, economic prosperity,
environmental responsibility and
social justice. A well-known culinary
gymnast who cooks with skill and
dedication, Wolwowicz is one of the
local pioneers of the homegrown and
ethical farm-to-table movements.
He was an early proponent of using
locally grown ingredients from farms
specializing in sustainable agriculture,
organic growing practices and ethically
raised livestock. Wolwowicz is aided by his
talented sous chef Kyle Trafford and a team
of apprentices. The chefs plate the food with
open-handed generosity.
Menu items are progressive, rustic in
style, feature high quality ingredients, local,
region-specific and specialty products, and
are executed with aptitude, innovation and
attention to detail. Wolwowicz’s menus
reflected dishes crafted from local, regional
and seasonal products long before it became
the prevailing attitude. There has been a
significant rise in customer expectations for
restaurants in terms of healthy-eating, allergy
concerns, sourcing, and sustainability over the
last few years. Craft Farmacy has kept abreast
of these changes.
We have enjoyed plenty of unique tasting
experiences like Roasted Bone Marrow (which
The blackboard menu displays the daily changes in draught beer and oyster offerings.
The dining room at Craft Farmacy is stylish yet comfortable,
and includes a fireplace and spacious bar area.
can later be used as a bourbon luge) with
Ox Tail Marmalade; Lamb Belly Croquettes;
Brown Butter Chicken Schnitzel with Warm
Potato Salad with Forked River Abbey Jus;
Craft Duck Plate with Magret, Confit and
Duck Fat Fingerlings; Cast Iron Hanger Steak
with Garlic Frites, Slaw, Demi, Aioli, Red
Onion Marmalade and Chimichurri; and a
dynamite Lamb Burger. There is Hangover
Soup (not on the menu) made with shellfish
broth and a raw bar featuring a fresh Shellfish
Tower, Shrimp Cocktail and a changing
selection of six to nine East Coast oyster
varieties including Malpeque, Irish Point,
Daisy Bay, Raspberry Point, Lucky Lime
and Savage Blonde with fresh horseradish,
mignonette sauce and hot sauce.
Jazey-Spoelstra’s stylish design sensibility
is reflected in Craft Farmacy and she definitely
delivers style and comfort with attention to
the smallest details.
Setting the tone is an
ample repurposed bar,
stunning fireplace,
custom-made leather
banquettes and
repurposed tables with
comfortable strappedback
bentwood-style
chairs. The servers’
custom-designed
leather aprons by
Coakley’s are another
example of Spoelstra’s
keen eye for detail.
Craft, as in an
activity involving skill