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THE SWING<br />
HOLE 4: WOMBAT HOLE<br />
<strong>the</strong> Sou<strong>the</strong>rn Ocean pounds an elemental beat upon <strong>the</strong><br />
rocks. Fur<strong>the</strong>r along at Eucla, chimneys and brick arches<br />
emerge from giant sand dunes as nature reclaims what was<br />
once Australia’s busiest telegraph station.<br />
Like <strong>the</strong> barely-changing scenery, <strong>the</strong> holes on <strong>the</strong> golf<br />
course begin to blend toge<strong>the</strong>r. I hack my way down craterous<br />
fairways and out of unyielding scrub, all <strong>the</strong> while taking an<br />
eternity to get <strong>the</strong> measure of <strong>the</strong> syn<strong>the</strong>tic greens.<br />
The game ends in Kalgoorlie, a boomtown where gold<br />
mining has long made this a place where people come to seek<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir fortune. While <strong>the</strong> downturn in Australia’s mining<br />
industry has brought an end to <strong>the</strong> days when <strong>the</strong> city had<br />
more millionaires per square metre than any o<strong>the</strong>r place in Oz,<br />
it is still a palpably prosperous place.<br />
The temporary mine workers who roll in for a few<br />
months to boost <strong>the</strong>ir bank accounts create a particularly<br />
lively atmosphere. The city is blessed with a roughhewn,<br />
Wild West charm. Local bars are famous for <strong>the</strong>ir ‘skimpies’<br />
– waitresses who work in <strong>the</strong>ir underwear – and <strong>the</strong> main<br />
drag (road) could easily serve as a shoot-out scene in a classic<br />
cowboy movie. After completing my round, I enjoy a steak<br />
dinner fit for a sheriff on <strong>the</strong> cantilevered balcony at <strong>the</strong><br />
Palace Hotel, a classic from <strong>the</strong> early days of <strong>the</strong> gold rush.<br />
The temporary mine workers who<br />
roll in for a few months to boost<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir bank accounts create a<br />
particularly lively atmosphere. The<br />
city is blessed with a roughhewn,<br />
Wild West charm. Local bars are<br />
famous for <strong>the</strong>ir ‘skimpies’<br />
Perth, in contrast, is <strong>the</strong> epitome of a modern<br />
Australian city. After four days of petrified landscapes and<br />
o<strong>the</strong>rworldly emptiness, it’s a relief to see healthy trees and<br />
people. But over dinner and drinks that night, my thoughts<br />
can’t help but return to <strong>the</strong> Nullarbor. Could <strong>the</strong> contours<br />
of <strong>the</strong> land have been put to better use? Would draining<br />
less cold beer between holes have made a difference to my<br />
game? Perhaps I’ll be back to test <strong>the</strong>se <strong>the</strong>ories out one<br />
day. But 1000-plus kilometres is a lot of ground to cover<br />
– especially when you are playing badly. So for now, I’m<br />
happy to be back in <strong>the</strong> sanctity of civilisation and well out<br />
of range of death adder country.<br />
63 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER <strong>2017</strong> | TM