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AW #131.pdf - Karatunov.net

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Pnrp rne LnvlNATtoNS<br />

10. Cut the riser block to length. Find the center of<br />

the bottom of the riser block and drill a 5,/lGin' hole'<br />

1/2-in. deep to fit over the index pin on the lower<br />

form. Tiace the shape of the riser using the pattern in<br />

*re kit and cut the shape using your bandsaw. Sand<br />

with a drum sander (Photo 4).<br />

11.Tiim the wood laminations to 32-in. Then, cook<br />

the riser and wood laminations in the heat box for<br />

about 30 minutes to chase off any surface moisture<br />

that might interfere with the epoxy set.<br />

12. Cutboth bottom pieces of Bo-Tufffiberglass to<br />

32-in. and the top piece to 64in. ADremel cut-offdisc<br />

works great on the Bo-Tuff, but a pair of metal cutting<br />

shears will do. Wear gloves when handling the Bo-<br />

Tuff. Fiberglass slivers are a real drag.<br />

13. The Bo-Tuff has a smooth and a rough side.<br />

The smooth side is the finished surface while the<br />

rough side gets the epoxy. Apply heat-resistant mask-<br />

ing tape to the smooth side of the Bo-Tuff. The mask-<br />

ing tape keeps epoxy off the surface and avoids<br />

unnecessary cleaning and sanding<br />

14. It's imperative to have everything (including a<br />

helper) ready before applyrng epoxy to the bow lam-<br />

inations. I like to set the form between blocks<br />

clamped to a pair of sawhorses. This provides clear-<br />

ance around the entire form so I can wrap filament<br />

tape around the form and pull the laminations down<br />

tight to the form. Test the pressure hose fittings for<br />

leaks in a pail of waterjust as you would with a bicycle<br />

inner tube. Also, rub a thin layer of paste wax onto<br />

the plastic laminate and both sides of the metal pres<br />

sure strip (Fig. B) to keep oozing epoxy from sticking<br />

to their surfaces.<br />

15. Roll out an ample length of plastic wrap over<br />

the lower form onto the plastic laminate to further<br />

protect it from epoxy squeeze out.<br />

Frc. D Wtntruc DtRcnRvt<br />

Q Ctr" the reverse taper strips to the lower form with contact<br />

Jcement. Make sure the thin end goes against the index pin'<br />

Add plastic laminate strips on top of the reverse taper strips to<br />

create a smooth surface on the form.The steel index pin is used<br />

to anchor the riser block in the form.<br />

7,1 tne oow's<br />

Ihandle is<br />

shaped from a<br />

large block of<br />

solid wood<br />

called a "riser<br />

blocki' Sand the<br />

riser with an<br />

oscillating spindle<br />

sander or a<br />

drum sander. A<br />

backer board<br />

allows you to<br />

feather the<br />

riser's tapered<br />

edges to a<br />

paper-thin thickness.<br />

(fn" bow is composed of three types of laminations: strips of<br />

r-f solid wood of uniform thickness, strips of solid wood that<br />

taper from end to end, and strips of Bo-Tuff fiberglass. Coat all<br />

of these pieces with slow-setting epoxy.<br />

AmericanWoodworker ocToBERzooz 61

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