AW #131.pdf - Karatunov.net

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You use the jig (Fig. A, right) to make the sockets and the router table to make the dovetails. Shims make it easy to create the tapers. TnpEn DrvEtrtstoNS The dovetails and sides of each dovetail and sockets increase in width at the rate of l/lGin. every 12 inches. (Both socket are tapered, so each side increases by I/32-in.) Shims milled to I/32- in.-thickness create perfect uPers on the l2-in.-wide workpieces shown here. To maintain the taper angle on assemblies wider or nar- rower than 12-in., simply adjust the shims' thickness. Mnrce rHE Jtc AND Rour rHE SocKETS Use a sled to make the jig's tapered guide boards (Photo 1). The sled and both guide board blanks must be squarely cut. Mark the taper's l2-in. run on the sled. Position the sled flush against a block and a stop. Thpe a shim on the block, above the mark you've just made on the sled. The shim's l/32-in. thickness constitutes the taper's rise. Butt the guide board blank against the stop and the shim and nail it to the sled. Mark the tapered edge and the direction of is slope. Then cut the taper (Photo 2). Assemble the jig (Photo 3). It should fit snugly over the cabinet sides. Make sure the tapered guide boards angle outward from front to back. The distance between the guide boards at the front of the jig determines the narrow width of the dovetail socket. For example, to make a 5,28-in.-wide socket using a l,/2-in. dovetail bit, the distance between the faces would measure the diameter of your router's base plus 1,/8-in. This socketwould swell to 11,/1Gin. at the back of a 12-in.- wide workpiece. Tapered sockets (and dovetails) of this width are perfect for the 3,/4in.-thick stock shown here. Frc. ,A ROUTING JIG This jig consists of two parallel rails and two guide boards.The inside edge of each guide board tapers outward at the rate of 1/32-in' per 12-in. length. On a 12-in.-wide board, this jig creates a socket that increases in width by 1/16-in' overall' I Fasten the jig's guide boards to a sled for tapering, using a block, a stop and a I shim for positioning. Buttthe sled to the stop and the block.Then tape on the shim. lt's thickness and location determine the taper's slope. Butt the guide board to the stoo and the shim.Then nail it to the sled' C)taper the skewed edge of each guide lboard. Holding the sled against the rip fence skews the guide board's back end toward the blade.The taper is very slight, so indicate the tapered edge and the taoer's direction. QAssemble the jig around the cabinet Jside. Butt everything against a block to guarantee the jig goes together squarely and the guide board tapers run true. Spacers elevate the rails for fastening the guide boards. American Woodworker ocToBER zoot 67
Ttaout the tapered sockets by bearing against each guide board. orient the iig's r tront with the cabinet side's front, so the sockets grow wider from front to back. a\ ,, ( To create the tapered dovetails, attach l use a tail tence to rout the tapered u,t shims at the back edge of each shelf. \-f dovetails. The dovetails gradually These shims must be the same thickness decrease in width from back to front, as the shim used to skew the guide boards. because the shims hold the back end oJ the shelf awav from the fence. ' t-^ / A stop and paper shims installed I behind the fence allow microadjusting the fence to dial in the perfect fit. 68 ,,\rnericarr \4ixr
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