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AW #131.pdf - Karatunov.net

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About the only mistake you can make during this<br />

step is being too stingy with the poly'urethane.<br />

Covering the surface quickly and uniformly is most<br />

important. Brushing direction doesn't matter, except<br />

at the ends. There I brush parallel to *re edges, to<br />

apply the polyurethane evenly and minimize drips.<br />

After using the low-angle light to make sure the<br />

section is completely covered, I level the<br />

poly'urethane with end-to-end strokes. The brush<br />

wicks up excess finish during this process, so before<br />

each stroke, I unload the brush by gently pressing it<br />

inside the measuring cup's rim. I use an especially<br />

light touch at the beginning of each stroke, to avoid<br />

leaving a pool of varnish.<br />

I don't brush out the last couple inches of the sec-<br />

tion, because I'll be brushing back into this portion<br />

later. \A/hen the raking light shows that all the brush<br />

marks run with the grain, I switch to a dry foam brush<br />

to clean the adjacent long edge (Photo 10). Most bris-<br />

tle brushes deposit too much polyurethane for this<br />

job, creating as many drips and sags as they remove.<br />

I move to the other side of the table to brush the<br />

next section, so I'm not leaning over the wet finish<br />

(Photo 11). I cut back into the wet polyr,rrethane as<br />

soon as possible. The longer it sets up, the more<br />

likely it is to show brush marks. I check my work in<br />

the raking light before moving on to the last section,<br />

and then again when that section-including its<br />

adjacent long edge-is completed.<br />

\Arhen the top looks good in raking light, I com-<br />

plete the job by cleaning the ends with the roller<br />

and dry foam brush (Photo 12). Then I walk away.<br />

Experience has taught me to leave tiny imperfec-<br />

tions. They look bad when the varnish is wet, but<br />

they virtually disappear when the varnish is dry.<br />

4.'rh -q .F -r.-.+.<br />

q__<br />

--.*"*p -\&,,,<br />

Removing Debris<br />

Inevitably, dust, hair, bristles or bugs will lodge in<br />

the wet finish. I use the edge of the brush to lift<br />

them off the surface as soon as I see them-it's too<br />

late if the poly has started to set up. After removing<br />

the offender, I brush lightly end-to-end to eliminate<br />

pock marks left by the process.<br />

86 American \{oodworker ocroBER 2oo7<br />

*o<br />

Pour enough<br />

, .r pslyurethane<br />

to complete the<br />

job into a clean<br />

container. I use a<br />

plastic measuring<br />

cup. lt's light<br />

in weight, easy<br />

to hold and it's<br />

wide opening<br />

allows plenty of<br />

room for the<br />

brush.<br />

.<br />

4<br />

Make<br />

'i rpolyurethane<br />

easier to brush by<br />

adding Pe<strong>net</strong>rol. a<br />

conditioner for<br />

oil-based paint<br />

and varnish.<br />

Pe<strong>net</strong>rol extends<br />

the open time,<br />

increases flowablilty<br />

and<br />

improves leveling,<br />

all without thinning<br />

the finish.<br />

Start finishing<br />

the top by<br />

priming the end<br />

grain. so drips<br />

from brushing<br />

the top won't<br />

leave permanent<br />

marks. A trim<br />

roller quickly<br />

applies an even,<br />

drip-free coat of<br />

polyu retha ne.<br />

t( Finish the top<br />

\. nin stages. Brush<br />

on the<br />

polyurethane in<br />

sections that are<br />

about 12-in.-wide.<br />

Your goals are to<br />

cover each section<br />

quickly and uniformly,<br />

using a<br />

minimum number<br />

of brush stokes.<br />

Brushing diagonally<br />

across the grain<br />

helps to evenly<br />

spread the<br />

polyu rethane.

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