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DERMAL CHOOSING THE RIGHT EQUIPMENT FOR YOUR SALON By Nancy Abdou “If you were going to open up a clinic, what devices would you buy?” That’s the question that I am constantly being asked. Having owned 15 highly successful locations across Melbourne, training for several key manufacturers and being in the industry for nearly 20 years, has allowed me to have insight as to what devices a business must consider in order to be successful and stand out from their competitors. However before divulging into those devices, you need to ask your self “what is my business trying to achieve? Is the focus hair removal or skin”? Skin rejuvenation is what will make you stand out from most of the competitors and large franchise chains, since their focus is on hair removal, which is a saturated market. To give you the edge, high client retention rates and satisfaction as well as loyalty, the focus needs to be on skin: scar, stretchmark and wrinkle reduction, pigmentation and vascular treatment, melasma, acne and rosacea management and maintaining your clients youth and skin laxity via collagen induction. So if you are wanting to extend your treatment menu, offer more results driven services whilst keeping both your clients and team happy then here are the must have devices and why: IPL – INTENSE PULSED LIGHT IPL is an amazing technology since it delivers a broad-band of light, this means you can choose various wavelengths, depending on your clients needs and skin condition. All manufacturers will have a wavelength from 510nm to 560nm to treat epidermal pigmentation such as sun spots, freckles or solar lentigos, these can be eradicated within 2-4 treatments, giving your clients a clear complexion, very quickly. Down time can be anywhere from 7 to 28 days, depending on where you are treating in the body. There are some limitations on what type of pigment you can treat, dermal pigmentation such as melasma and PIH should not be treated with IPL, since this may stimulate the melanocyte and cause a rebound effect. Additionally you cannot treat Fitzpatrick skin types 5 and 6. Utilising the same wavelength, 510nm to 560nm, various vascular conditions can be treated such telangiectasia, spider nevi, angiomas, as well as rosacea management. When utilising the correct technique and fluences, vascular treatment with IPL is highly successful, taking only about 4 treatments, with rosacea requiring more treatments and long-term maintenance. Again darker Fitzpatrick are not suitable for this treatment, due to the absorption by the competing melanin in the skin. The 580/590nm wavelength is one of the most underutilised wavelengths, yet the results are extraordinary – especially when combined with epiblading, micro-needling and RF in the same treatment. Reaching approximately 2mm to 3mm deep, depending on the pulse duration selected, this wavelength is brilliant at stimulating fibroblasts, which in turn synthesise collagen, elastin and glycosaminoglycans (GAGs). Treatment with 580/590nm will help with scar revision, fine lines and wrinkles, stretch marks, open pores and an overall skin plumping and rejuvenating effect. MICRO-NEEDLING Micro-needling is a fantastic way to either induce collagen or help with inflammatory skin conditions such as melasma or rosacea. When using micro-needling to induce collagen, we create tiny micro-wounds to pierce the blood vessels and cause pin-point bleeding to stimulate fibroblasts, as well as growth factors, in particular transformative growth factors (collagen and elastin production), interleukin 10 (pigment inhibiting) and cytokines (cellular signalling). These brilliant effects will hep with any skin type or condition that needs remodelling, restoring, regeneration or rejuvenating, on any Fitzpatrick skin type. 34 Beauty Biz Year 14 Issue 1
On the other hand when performed in a less intense manner, by not causing pin-point bleeding and only just achieving minor erythema, microneedling instigates angiogenesis, which will help with rosacea or dermal pigmentation, as shallow needling inhibits the formation of pigmentation, as well as regulating the functionality of the melanocyte. When clients prepare their skin with active serums, such as Retinaldehyde, Vitamin C and Niacinamide, the effects of shallow needling, intensify immensely. LED – LIGHT EMITTING DIODES LED has been around for over 40 years, where NASA used LED’s to grow plants in space (be sure to put your plant under an LED to actually see the effect it has!). Different wavelengths have different effects on individualised cells and tissues and stimulate metabolic function via the light frequencies. All Fitzpatrick skin types tolerate LED well, with no side effects since it is a non-thermal treatment. There are various wavelengths, but the most popular colours are red and blue: Blue LED at 415-425nm is scientifically and clinically proven to kill the P. acnes bacteria that causes mild-to-moderate acne. Porphyrin is produced in acne, when treated with blue LED it produces singlet oxygen, which interferes with the chemical metabolic reaction of acne and eventually kills P. acnes. All Fitzpatirck skin types tolerate blue LED, with varying doses and exposure. Red LED, 633nm, is responsible for stimulating ATP (adenosine triphosphate), which is cellular energy in the mitochondria. By the time we have reached age 60, ATP levels have reduced to 50% - which means slower wound healing, reduced levels of collagen and elastin synthesis, thus results are mediocre. By recharging the skin cells energy levels (ATP), results are enhanced and wound healing is much quicker. Prepping the skin for 2 weeks prior, 3 treatments a week with LED, ensures the skin is in top condition and results are the best they can be. PLASMA FIBROBLAST Plasma Fibroblast treatments are becoming much more popular these days and have an excellent return on investment, with unbelievable results seen in 2-3 treatments for skin tightening, scar revision, stretch mark reduction to name a few, on the face and the body. Depending on the pen, most pens are multifunctional and can also treat other skin conditions such as skin tags, sebaceous hyperplasia, milia, pigmented and vascular lesions as well as dot-less plasma treatments and permeating tips used to enhance product absorption. Plasma Fibroblast works by causing a superficial, fractionated wound that causes collagen fibres to shrink (like saggy jeans in a hot dryer) whilst the transference of heat within the skin, causes fibroblasts to be stimulated – so it’s a two pronged approach. The precision in which the energy is delivered, means it can be used on delicate areas such as the eye lids without inter-ocular eye shields, unlike IPL or laser. Since Plasma Fibroblast is a soft tissue ablator, it can only be used on Fitzpatrick skin types 1-4. Down time can be anywhere from 5-30 days, depending where in the face or body is being treated. RF - RADIO FREQUENCY RF is also becoming a very popular treatment for rejuvenation, collage induction, skin laxity and body contouring. RF heats up the dermis between 39-41 degrees to denature collagen, whilst shrinking the collagen fibres and also stimulating fibroblasts. At 42-46 degrees, it causes lipolysis, which is great for contouring areas on the body, whilst reducing skin sag. The results are incredible, with high client satisfaction, especially since there is no down time and can be performed on all skin types, including Fitzpatrick skin type 6. We used in conjunction with epiblading and needling – the results are amplified: epiblading ensures the skin is exfoliated and hydrated for better RF penetration, whilst performing RF prior to needling causes vasodilation, to achieve better clinical end point and further fibroblast synthesis, along with more growth factors and cytokines. EPIBLADING Also called epidermal levelling or dermaplaning, epiblading is just more than ‘shaving the face” – yes it does superficially get rid of vellus hair and gently exfoliates the skin, but can and should be used with other treatments, serums and enzymes for superior outcomes and results and can be used on all Fitzpatrick skin types. For those with problematic hair, epiblading can be used with IPL or laser hair reduction in the one treatment to permanently reduce dark hairs, otherwise it can be used with a hair retardant such as the Skindividual HairHalt serum. Epiblading increases the depth of penetration of RF, by hydrating the skin, whilst combining with the 580/590nm IPL wavelength also ensures all of the light is being penetrated to the dermis without obstruction of debris on the epidermal layer. Epiblading can also be used with needling to also cause vasodilation for better pinpoint bleeding, in addition to keeping needles super sharp which means and less bruising. Even if you were to purchase one of these devices at a time, you are on the right path to a successful business, that is renowned for performing results driven skin treatments. On a final note, when purchasing a device, ensure you are buying from a reputable company that has been around for at least 5 years and provides excellent training and technical support. Also check that the device has an ARTG number and listed on the TGA to ensure your insurer covers you. For more advice, book in a one hour consultation with Nancy to ensure you are making the right purchase for your business or a personalised coaching session for you and your team, to get the most out of your existing devices or to learn how to effectively and safely combine modalities. Mention Beauty Biz for a 20% reduction on your session. Contact Nina on 0476 880 311 to make your booking. Beauty Biz Year 14 Issue 1 35
Page 1 and 2: The Essential Business Guide for Sa
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