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BURGUNDY<br />
APPELLATION<br />
DOMAINE BOURGOGNE-DEVAUX:<br />
A POMMARD LIKE NO OTHER<br />
BERNARD LÉGER PLUMET (CHALET<br />
POUILLY) PRESENTS HIS WINES<br />
IN GERMANY<br />
ELINE, THE AMERICAN<br />
GRANDDAUGHTER, RETURNS FOR<br />
HARVESTING AT CHALET POUILLY<br />
The aptly-named Bourgogne family are in fact two<br />
winegrowing brothers with a difference. Their<br />
estate, located in Meloisey, has 4.1 hectares under<br />
vine and both brothers have two jobs. Luc, 38, is also<br />
a banker, whilst his brother Fabrice, 41, is a winegrower<br />
at the Hospices de Beaune. Sometimes their<br />
father lends a hand, and they sell 30,000 bottles,<br />
hence their small winery.<br />
They produce two Pommard appellation labels,<br />
including one called ‘Vignot’ grown on very stony<br />
soils in a vineyard facing due South, which reminds<br />
them more of a Volnay. The wines sell for around<br />
€35 a bottle. The appellation’s reputation is such<br />
that the wines are in high demand, particularly<br />
among Americans. The two brothers therefore<br />
strive to distribute their wines as best they can. Luc<br />
enjoys savouring the wines after 3 to 5 years bottle<br />
age, when they start to develop aromas of undergrowth<br />
and game.<br />
They also produce a red Haute-Côte-de-Beaune –<br />
this is not a village but a sub-regional appellation.<br />
One of Domaine Bourgogne-Devaux’s characteristics<br />
is that some of the vineyards are located close to<br />
those for Pommard. Everything is therefore vinted<br />
as single-vineyard offerings, producing six different<br />
labels. In 2020, the quality was superb, claims<br />
Luc, with pronounced alcohol levels. In fact, it<br />
offers the best value for money. When the brothers<br />
present their entire range, consumers ultimately<br />
forget that it is a Haute-Côte-de-Beaune.<br />
THE FAMOUS SOLUTRÉ ROCK<br />
DOMAINE DU CHALET POUILLY:<br />
MAJESTIC ST VÉRAN<br />
At the helm of this estate is a threesome – Bernard<br />
Léger-Plumet, a former doctor; his wife, a biologist;<br />
and their daughter based in New York.<br />
Founded in 1850, the winery is situated – the<br />
clue is in the name – in the hamlet of Pouilly. It<br />
has 9 hectares under vine and its village appellations<br />
are Pouilly Fuissé, St Véran and Mâcon<br />
Solutré-Pouilly.<br />
SUMMER 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE <strong>FR</strong>ENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
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