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Trre OnIGINAL HONAE WOOOWORKING RruN ... - Wood Tools

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28<br />

Iilt the table saw blade to 45' and cut<br />

a 3/s" chamfer on the top comerc of<br />

all the 2x4 scrcen and top caps.<br />

(The infill boards' protruding ends<br />

will fit into a grooved screen cap.)<br />

Clamp the opposing upper and<br />

lower rails in place on top of the infill<br />

boards, making sure each pair of rails<br />

is aligned. The opposing rails get<br />

nailed in place.<br />

MOVE TO THE TOP SECTIOiI<br />

My main concern in designing the<br />

top section was keeping the bottoms<br />

of the slats firmly fastened to the<br />

screen cap so the slets wouldnt twist<br />

out of position if they warped or<br />

shrank. To keep the slas in check I<br />

decided to cut a shallow groove in<br />

the top face of the screen cap - just<br />

deep enough to hold the slat ends<br />

captive without collecting water.<br />

Before swapping the blade in my<br />

table saw for a dado set, however, I<br />

chamfered the top edges ofthe 2x4<br />

With the cune laid ont, clamp the<br />

archd rail stock together and cut the<br />

cune with a iig saw. File and sand the<br />

edges smooth.<br />

Pfough a !4'x3ls,u gowe in the bottom<br />

of the caps. Lover the blade Vte"<br />

and gruwe the scrcen capst top face.<br />

layout the ceilerc of the s|ats (every<br />

3"1 along the gnove in the scrcen cap.<br />

Drill a Ve" pilot hole at the marks.<br />

caps to help shed rain (rIG. 3). Next,<br />

I installed 2 314"-titde dado blade<br />

keep your hands safely away from<br />

the blade. Also watch out for small<br />

and ploughed a groove in the bot- offcuts that may creep back into the<br />

tom face of all the screen and top spinning blade.<br />

caps (rIG. 4).The groove in the bot- As added insurance against slat<br />

tom of the screen cap fits over the movement, screws hold the slats to<br />

ends ofthe infill boards that extend the screen cap. I marked out the slat<br />

beyond the upper rails. Finally, centers along the groove in the<br />

plough a groove in the screen cap's screen cap. (I also marked the edge<br />

top face to accept the slats.<br />

locations to make positioning the<br />

Each S-ft. fence section has 23 slats easy.) Then, I drilled a<br />

slats - 368 total to complete my 16<br />

sections. To eficiendy handle such<br />

volume, rip all your stock to width<br />

first, then use your table saw and a<br />

miter gauge equipped with an auxiliary<br />

face and a stop block to cut<br />

the slats to a consistent length.<br />

Given the sheer number of slats<br />

needed, this repetitive cutting<br />

motion can lull you into carelessness,<br />

so stay alert for kickback and<br />

t/s"-dta.<br />

pilot hole completely through the<br />

cap on the center marks (EtC. 5).<br />

This helps prevent splitting the slats<br />

and the screen cap near its ends. It<br />

also creates some clearance around<br />

the shank ofthe screw so that as the<br />

threads go into a slat, the screw's<br />

head can draw the slat snugly into<br />

the groove (FIG. 6). Install all the<br />

slats on the screen cap and set the<br />

assembly aside for now.<br />

Position one arched rail under the<br />

slats, allowingthe slats to nrn Vs"<br />

prcud of the top edge. Fasten each<br />

slat to the rail with trvo scrcws.<br />

Align the second arched rail with the<br />

first rail, clamp it in place, then drive<br />

the nails. Use 6d gahanized casing<br />

nails as you did on the screen sestion.<br />

WORKBENCH ! MAY I IUNE 1999

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