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Trre OnIGINAL HONAE WOOOWORKING RruN ... - Wood Tools

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Use the 345 rule to establish a square<br />

corner. With two sides fixed at 3-ft. and<br />

&ft., move the string line until the dis<br />

tance betrveen points B & G is 5-ft.<br />

ESTABLISHING THE FENCE.TINE<br />

With all the Gnce sections built, I<br />

was anxious to get thern installed so<br />

I could show off all my hard work<br />

(and be able to once again park the<br />

car in the garage). But installing a<br />

fence that's both straight and level<br />

isn't a job you want to rush.<br />

Start laying out the fence-line at a<br />

corner location or another fixed<br />

point. In my case this was the side of<br />

the garage. After establishing the<br />

location for the first post next to the<br />

garage wall, I laid out a string line at<br />

90o to the building, then drove stakes<br />

at each post location (FIG. 13).<br />

I'd always thought my yard was<br />

fairly flat, but to check it out, I used<br />

a straight-edged board and a level to<br />

establish a level line between the<br />

Place one end of a stniglrt edgpd boad<br />

atop the first stake, then drive a second<br />

stake until the boad is level. The difrerence<br />

in the stake heietts is the drup.<br />

Position each fence section between<br />

pairs of posts and shim the section so<br />

the rails arc level. Clamp the plates to<br />

the posts while you drive the screws.<br />

stakes (RG. 14). My yard was level INSTAII IIIE PANETS<br />

from the garage to the side of the Up to this point, I easily managed<br />

lot, but it dropped 24" frorn that the sections by myself, but to jockey<br />

point to the back lot line (32 ft.), and install them between the posts,<br />

requiring me to step the fence I needed a helper. Beginning at the<br />

down the slope. Since it took four posts nearest the garage, I positioned<br />

sections to span this distance, I had a section with the top of one<br />

to drop the top of each successive mounting plate flush with the top<br />

panel roughly 6" below the previous of the first post. After clamping this<br />

one. This also required the posts for plate to the post, I adjusted the<br />

the staggered sections on the slope other end of the section until the<br />

to be 6" longer than those on level rails were level, then drove screws<br />

ground. (I set mine extra long, then through both mounting plates to<br />

cut then to the proper height.) fasten the fence section to the posts<br />

Wirh the posr alignnrenr, posirion, (Erc. 15).<br />

and height determined, I dug the Where the fence steps down a<br />

holes and set the posts (see Selllng slope, you'll need to adjust the posi-<br />

Fence Posts on page 34). After the tion of the "downhill" mounting<br />

concrete had cured for several days, I plate before you install it on the panel<br />

was ready to install the fence sections. (MOUNTING PLATE STEPS).<br />

BUILDING A "LEI/EL'' FENGE ON UNWEN TERRAIN<br />

Lengthen posts to<br />

compensate for a change in grade.<br />

Inflll boards can be extended<br />

to close off gaps below rail.<br />

You want to step down a slope so<br />

that each fence section rcmains<br />

level and the drup fiom one section<br />

to the next is unifiorm. To do this,<br />

extend a level line fiom the grcund<br />

at the top of the slope to the end of<br />

the run and measurc the amount of<br />

drcp. Divide the drcp by the number<br />

of sections to determine how much<br />

you should lorver each oonsecutiye<br />

section. On steep gnrund, you may<br />

need sections that arc half as long<br />

as a standad section, or use infill<br />

boads that extend below the lower<br />

rail to close off gaps.<br />

30 woF.KBENCH tr MAY I JUNE 1999

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