Seed Guide 2007 pgs 01/41 - McKenzie Seeds

Onions can also be grown very
successfully from seed sown under cover
in trays early in the year or in shallow
trenches outdoors. Transplant the
seedlings in spring at the same distances
as for sets and use any thinnings as salad
onions.
Winter onion varieties are sown in late
summer to overwinter and harvest the
following spring or early summer. Sow the
seeds about 1in (2cm) apart in shallow
trenches 9in (23cm) apart and thin out to
4in (10cm) apart the following spring. For
spring onions see page 32.
Shallots
Shallots, like small onions, are ideal for
pickling, for flavouring and for grating or
slicing in salads. They are grown from
bulbs, each of which produces 10-20
mature bulbs, and are planted in late
winter for harvesting in early summer.
Push the bulb into the soil to half its
depth, spacing the bulbs 6in (15cm) apart
and the rows 9in (23cm) apart. Ensure the
shallots are thoroughly dry before storing
in nets or trays where they will keep in
perfect condition for up to 12 months.
Leeks
The gourmet vegetable that every
gardener can grow. Seed can be sown
under glass in winter or outdoors in early
spring, very thinly about 1/2in (1.25cm)
deep. When the seedlings are about as
thick as pencils, transplant them to 6-8in
(15- 20cm) deep holes, made with a
dibber, and spaced 6in (15cm) apart each
way. Simply drop the leek into the hole,
then fill it with water. About three weeks
after planting out give the leeks a
dressing of a balanced organic fertilizer,
and a second dressing about three weeks
after the first. Leeks are hardy and should
be dug as required for the kitchen.
Melons
Sow the seed in early spring in a heated
propagator or greenhouse at a steady
temperature of 70-75F (21-24C), setting
each seed 1/2in (1.25cm) deep in a small
pot of peat- based compost.
G R O W I N G I N F O R M A T I O N
At the four-leaf stage the plants can be
moved onto an open sunny site, allowing
each plant 3 feet of space.
In the greenhouse, plant in a border soil
enriched with well rotted compost or into
10in (25cm) pots. Train up wires and pinch
out the growing point when it reaches
the roof. While growing upward the main
stem will produce side shoots, let these
develop 2-3 leaves and then pinch out
their growing point also. these side shoots
will also produce shoots (sub-laterals) and
these too should be allowed to produce
2-3 leaves before the growing point is
pinched out. The female flowers grow
best on these sub-laterals.
Under cover it is advisable to hand
pollinate the female flowers (those with a
slight swelling behind the petals) by
dusting them with pollen from male
flowers which have no swelling at all.
Melons must have plenty of moisture at
all times along with regular feeding with
a liquid fertilizer.
To grow bush varieties and climbing types
in frames, pinch out the growing point
when it has 5 leaves. Pinch out the
growing point of the side shoots when
they have 3 leaves. Select 4 of the most
vigorous shoots and train these to 4
corners of the frame, then remove all the
other shoots. Plants may need some
direction from time to time.
Outdoor melons need a fertile well
drained soil which warms up early, and
with plenty of well rotted compost dug in
the previous autumn. They need a soil
temperature of 71-77F (22-25C) and an air
temperature of above 65F (18C) to
flourish. Raise the plants as described,
about 3-4 weeks before you intend to
plant out and at this time cover the soil of
the melon bed with plastic mulch to warm
the soil, retain moisture, improve earliness
and fruit quality. Plant in single rows,
after all risk of frost has gone and the soil
is warm, 20-36in (50-90cm) apart and 6-8ft
(2-2.5m) between rows or other
vegetables, pulling a little soil around the
plant to keep it from touching the plastic
W W W . M C K E N Z I E S E E D S . C O M
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