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Seed Guide 2007 pgs 01/41 - McKenzie Seeds

Seed Guide 2007 pgs 01/41 - McKenzie Seeds

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The actual date when you sow your seeds<br />

will vary from season to season and also<br />

with the area in which you live. In a cold,<br />

late season for example, it is beneficial to<br />

sow later than usual, as earlier sowings<br />

will most probably suffer from the<br />

untypically cold weather they experience.<br />

Later sowings will often catch up and do<br />

just as well as early sowings made in cold<br />

Light/Dark<br />

Until germination, seeds needing light<br />

should be placed in subdued lighting out<br />

of direct sunlight and should have no<br />

newspaper, brown paper etc., placed over<br />

the trays. <strong>Seed</strong>s needing dark for<br />

germination should be placed in total<br />

darkness.<br />

Compost<br />

Most reputable seed composts will be<br />

quite adequate. On no account should<br />

potting composts which have additional<br />

fertilizers be used.<br />

Special treatment of seeds before sowing<br />

Some seeds benefit from pre-treatment<br />

before sowing or from being sown in a<br />

particular way. Here are brief explanations<br />

of the techniques mentioned in the<br />

following list. In almost all cases it is not<br />

critical that you carry out this pretreatment<br />

but if it is not done the seeds<br />

will usually take longer to germinate.<br />

Chipping<br />

Some seeds, e.g. Sweet peas, Ipomoea,<br />

etc have hard seed coats which prevent<br />

moisture being absorbed by the seed. All<br />

that is needed is for the outer surface to<br />

be scratched or abraded to allow water<br />

to pass through. This can be achieved by<br />

chipping the seed with a sharp knife at a<br />

part furthest away from the 'eye', by<br />

rubbing lightly with emery paper or, with<br />

very small seed, pricking carefully once<br />

with a needle etc. Some of our geranium<br />

seeds have already been treated in this<br />

G R O W I N G I N F O R M A T I O N<br />

Sowing Times<br />

Additional Information<br />

weather, which may have to struggle just<br />

to keep going. Likewise, in cold Northern<br />

areas you may have to sow several weeks<br />

later than in warmer areas for the same<br />

reason. Our recommendations are merely<br />

a guide which should be set against<br />

current weather conditions and your own<br />

experience of when sowings are made in<br />

your area.<br />

way when you received them and if you<br />

examine them carefully you will see that<br />

a tiny part of the end of the seed has<br />

been carefully clipped off.<br />

Soaking<br />

Soaking is beneficial in two ways; it can<br />

soften a hard seed coat and also leach<br />

out any chemical inhibitors in the seed<br />

which may prevent germination.<br />

Anything from 1-3 hours in water which<br />

starts off hand hot is usually sufficient. If<br />

soaking for longer the water should be<br />

changed daily. <strong>Seed</strong>s of some species<br />

swell up when they are soaked. If some<br />

seeds of batch do swell within 24 hours<br />

they should be planted immediately and<br />

the remainder pricked gently with a pin<br />

and returned to soak. As each seed swells<br />

it should be removed and sown before it<br />

has time to dry out.<br />

Pre-chilling<br />

In some instructions you will find a<br />

reference to 'pre-chilling'. This is a pretreatment<br />

of the seed which often helps<br />

to speed up the germination of otherwise<br />

slow to germinate seeds. However, even<br />

after pre-chilling some seeds can<br />

stubbornly refuse to germinate until a<br />

W W W . M C K E N Z I E S E E D S . C O M<br />

5

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