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Seed Guide 2007 pgs 01/41 - McKenzie Seeds

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G R O W I N G I N F O R M A T I O N<br />

year or more has passed, so never be too<br />

hasty in discarding a seed container.<br />

Pre-chilling was traditionally done by<br />

standing the pots outside in a cold frame<br />

during the winter. It is often quicker to<br />

adopt the following technique using a<br />

domestic refrigerator and this is of<br />

particular value if you obtain your seed<br />

outside the winter months.<br />

To pre-chill, first sow the seed on<br />

moistened seed compost, seal the seed<br />

container inside a polythene bag and<br />

leave at 60-65F (15- 18C) for 3 days then<br />

place in a refrigerator for the<br />

recommended period. For convenience<br />

large seeds can be mixed with 2-3 times<br />

their volume of damp seed compost,<br />

placed direct into a polythene bag which<br />

is sealed and placed in the refrigerator.<br />

However; there must always be sufficient<br />

air inside the bag and the compost<br />

should NEVER become either too dry or<br />

over wet, After pre-chilling these seeds<br />

can then be spread with the compost on<br />

top of a seed container and firmed down.<br />

The seeds must be moist whilst being prechilled,<br />

but it will harm them if they are<br />

actually in water. During the period in<br />

the refrigerator; examine the seeds once<br />

a week and remove all the seeds into the<br />

specified warm conditions if any of them<br />

start to germinate.<br />

Light also seems to be beneficial after<br />

pre- chilling, so pre-chilled seeds should<br />

have only the lightest covering of<br />

compost, if any is required, and the seed<br />

trays or pots, should be in the light and<br />

not covered in paper.<br />

Double dormancy<br />

Some seeds have a combination of<br />

dormancies and each one has to be<br />

broken in turn and in the right sequence<br />

6<br />

before germination can take place; for<br />

example some Lillies, Tree paeonies,<br />

Daphne etc need a warm period during<br />

which the root develops followed by a<br />

cold period to break dormancy of the<br />

shoots, before the seedling actually<br />

emerges. Some seeds need a cold period<br />

followed by a warm period and then<br />

another cold period before they will<br />

germinate. In all cases the times and<br />

temperatures have been provided in the<br />

sowing instructions.<br />

Outdoor treatment<br />

The above mentioned methods accelerate<br />

the germination process and help to<br />

prevent seeds being lost due to external<br />

hazards (mice, disease etc) but outdoor<br />

sowing is just as effective except longer.<br />

The seeds are best sown in containers of<br />

free draining compost and placed in a<br />

cold frame or plunged up to their rim<br />

outdoors in a shaded part of the garden,<br />

preferably on the north side of the house<br />

avoiding cold dry winds and strong sun.<br />

Recent tests show that much of the<br />

beneficial effects of pre-chilling are lost if<br />

the seed is not exposed to light<br />

immediately afterwards. We therefore<br />

recommend sowing the seeds very close<br />

to the surface of the soil and covering<br />

the container with a sheet of glass. An<br />

alternative method especially with larger<br />

seeds, is to sow the seed in well prepared<br />

ground, cover with a jam jar and press<br />

this down well into the soil so that the<br />

seeds are enclosed and safe from<br />

predators, drying out etc.<br />

Sowing<br />

Where outdoor sowing is recommended<br />

moist soil which is weed free and has<br />

been raked down to a fine tilth is<br />

essential. For hardy annuals and<br />

perennials sowing can be carried out<br />

from late winter onwards as soon as the<br />

ground is workable and has warmed up;<br />

half hardy annuals after all danger of<br />

frost is passed and when the soil has<br />

warmed up.

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