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142 ACROSS LAKE BAIKAL.<br />

37. ACROSS LAKE BAIKAL.<br />

1. It was a lovely morning when we once more<br />

sighted the river Angara. But, to my astonishment,<br />

this was no silent expanse of ice, as I had seen it on<br />

the previous night. Before me was a broad, swiftlyrunning<br />

river, its clear waters sparkling like <strong>cr</strong>ystal<br />

in the bright rays of th e rising sun, whil e on the<br />

surface no trace of ice could I discern.<br />

2. We followed the banks of th e riv er all th e way<br />

to Lake Baikal. I was pr epared now for any surprise,<br />

after th e transformation that had so startled<br />

me in the morning ; so, when a bend in the road<br />

brought us in full view of this vast inland sea, I was<br />

not astonished to see that it was still held in th e icy<br />

grasp of th e Siberian winter. Th e ice commenced at<br />

the very mouth of the Angara. From one side of the<br />

stream to th e other, the line of the ice was as straight<br />

as if it had been rul ed.<br />

3. Our road now lay along the shore-a sort of<br />

rocky beach, reminding me very much of bits of<br />

Devonshire. The road in one place left th e shore for<br />

a short distance, and went right a<strong>cr</strong>oss a little harbour<br />

<strong>cr</strong>owded with shipping, where we had to dodge in and<br />

out among th e vessels, and duck our heads to avoid<br />

th e ropes and spars. My driver evidently kn ew th e<br />

place well, for we went right through th e fleet at full<br />

gall op, and a few minutes later reached th e point at<br />

which th e journey a<strong>cr</strong>oss th e lake is commenced.<br />

4. Try to imagine what it would be lik e, starting<br />

from Dover on a warm , spring-like morning to drive<br />

over to Calais or to Boulogn e, and you will hav e some<br />

idea of thi s part of my journey. The opposite shore

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