W2-880 Tjd, Thd, Th - Repair - Wisconsin Motors

22
Gasoline vaporized in fuel lines, due to excessive heat around
engine (Vapor Lock). See ’Stopping Engine’.
Vapor lock in fuel lines or carburetor due to using winter gas
(too volatile) in hot weather.
Air vent hole in fuel tank cap plugged. Engine scored or stuck
due to lack of oil.
Ignition troubles, See ’Ignition’.
ENGINE OVERHEATS
Crankcase oil supply low. Replenish immediately.
Ignition spark timed wrong. See "Magneto Timing’, or ’Distributor-Battery
Ignition’.
Low grade of gasoline.
Engine overloaded.
Restricted cooling air circulation.
Part of air shroud removed from engine.
Dirt between cooling fins on cylinder head.
Engine operated in confined space where cooling air is
continually recirculated.
Carbon in engine.
Dirty or incorrect grade of crankcase oil
Restricted exhaust.
Engine operated while detonating due to low octane gasoline
or heavy load at low speed.
ENGINE KNOCKS
Poor grade of gasoline or of low octane rating.
Engine operating under heavy load at low speed.
Carbon or lead deposits in cylinder head.
Spark advanced too far. See ’Magneto Timing’, or "Battery
Ignition Distributor’.
Loose or burnt out connecting rod bearing.
Engine overheated. See previous heading.
Worn or loose piston pin.
ENGINE BACKFIRES THROUGH CARB URETOR
Water or dirt in gasoline. Poor grade of ga~;oline.
Engine cold.
Sticky inlet valves.
Overheated valves.
Spark plugs too hot. See ’Spark Plugs’.
Hot carbon particles in engine.
DISASSEMBLY AND REASSEMBL¥
OF ENGINE
Engine repairs should be made only by an experienced
mechanic. When disassembling the engine it is advisable to
have several boxes available so that parts belonging to
certain groups can be kept together. Capscrews of various
lengths are used in the engine, therefore great care must be
exercised in reassembly so that the correct screws are used in
the proper places.
Tighten the capscrews and nuts of the manifold, cylinder
head, gear cover, engine base, connecting rods, cylinder
blgck, main bearing plate and the spark plugs to the specified
torque readings indicated in paragraphs of reassembly relative
to these parts.
With the disassembling operations, instructions on
reassembling are also given, as often, it will not be necessary
to disassemble the entire engine. If it is desired to disassemble
the entire engine, the reassembly instructions can be
looked up later under the headings of the various parts.
While the engine is partly or fully dismantled, all parts
should be thoroughly cleaned. Use all new gaskets in
reassembly and lubricate all bearing surfaces.
TESTING REBUILT ENGINE
An engine that has been completely overhauled, such as
having the cylinders rebored and fitted with new pistons,
rings and valves, should go through a thorough "run-in"
period before any amount of load is applied to the engine.
The engine should be started and allowed to run for about
one-half hour, at about 1200 to 1400 R.P.M. without load.
The R.P.M. should then be increased to engine operating
speed, still without load, for an additional three and one-half
to four hours.
The proper "running-in" of the engine will help to establish
polished bearing surfaces and proper clearances between the
friction areas of the newly replaced parts.
ACCESSORIES
DRAIN OIL BEFORE DISASSEMBLY
Remove clutch or reduction unit if engine is equipped with
either of these accessories.
Take off the air cleanerand magneto. If electric starting
rnotor~ generator and distributor were furnished, these
should also be removed at this time.
Remove the muffler and disconnect the governor control,
choke control, ignition switch and fuel lines.
SHEET METAL HOUSE
On power units (engines which are enclosed in a sheet metal
house), the top or canopy can be removed by taking out the
screws holding it to the end panels.
FRONT PANEL (Fig. 29)
Remove the air cleaner and bracket, the flywheel screen and
the four screws which support the panel to side rails. The
front house panel can then be removed as shown.