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Through Four Seasons' Eyes Budapest - IMEX America

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Monuments<br />

A testament to history<br />

118<br />

Dohány Street<br />

Synagogue<br />

Dohány Utcai<br />

Zsinagóga<br />

Europe’s second largest<br />

synagogue stands where Dohány<br />

utca meets the Kiskörút, a short<br />

walk from focal Astoria or Deák<br />

tér. Designed in Moorish Revival<br />

style by Viennese architect Lajos<br />

Förster, the Dohány utca (or<br />

‘Great’) Synagogue, the model<br />

for the Central Synagogue in<br />

Manhattan, was renovated during<br />

the 1990s. Bright brickwork<br />

glows in blue, yellow and red, the<br />

heraldic colors of <strong>Budapest</strong>. The<br />

building is only one of several<br />

key features in a complex that<br />

also contains a modest Jewish<br />

Museum and the Heroes’ Temple,<br />

both dating back to 1931. A later<br />

inclusion to the museum is a<br />

Holocaust Room – the Synagogue<br />

stood just inside the war-time<br />

Jewish Ghetto, and among<br />

the post-1945 additions to the<br />

complex are a Jewish Cemetery<br />

and the Raoul Wallenberg<br />

Holocaust Memorial Park.<br />

Fisherman’s Bastion<br />

Halászbásztya<br />

A stark white confection of<br />

seven towers and a panoramic<br />

terrace offering a perfect view<br />

of the Danube and Pest beyond,<br />

the Fisherman’s Bastion is the<br />

romantic creation of Frigyes<br />

Schulek. This late 19th-century<br />

architect, having taken more than<br />

20 years to complete the equally<br />

romanticized reconstruction<br />

of nearby Matthias Church,<br />

set about work using existing<br />

portions of an old fortress that<br />

once stood behind it. Guarded<br />

by a statue of St Stephen on<br />

horseback, Schulek’s neo-<br />

Romanesque vantage point<br />

suffered extensive damage in<br />

World War II. His son János was<br />

head of the project to restore it<br />

in 1948. Today the Fisherman’s<br />

Bastion, while still providing<br />

incomparable vistas of the<br />

Hungarian capital, has become<br />

a somewhat tacky tourist trap,<br />

visitors are too often pestered<br />

by peddlers of embroidery and<br />

Gypsy music.<br />

Great Market Hall<br />

Nagyvásárcsarnok<br />

<strong>Budapest</strong>’s largest indoor<br />

market was completely restored<br />

and reopened in 1994, almost<br />

a century after its original<br />

inauguration. Back then, an<br />

underground canal used to<br />

run from the river nearby,<br />

taking barges through the<br />

Main Customs Office (today the<br />

<strong>Budapest</strong> University of Economic<br />

Science) and into the market.<br />

Habsburg Emperor Franz Josef<br />

was one particular customer that<br />

inaugural year of 1897. After the<br />

war, the Market Hall remained in<br />

operation – famously, Margaret<br />

Thatcher paid a visit in 1984<br />

to bargain for paprika – but<br />

was in dire need of repair. The<br />

three-year renovation cost Ft4<br />

billion and was completed with<br />

a bright and distinctive Zsolnay<br />

tile roof. Today some 180 stalls,<br />

selling more than just produce,<br />

are spread over three floors,<br />

attracting as many as 30,000<br />

shoppers six days a week – the<br />

market is closed on Sundays.

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