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CMX 2004 - Plumbing & HVAC

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Hot Water Heating<br />

The perfect way to heat<br />

a garage or workshop<br />

By Roy Collver<br />

5<br />

M<br />

2<br />

4<br />

1<br />

2<br />

3<br />

4<br />

5<br />

HIGH TEMPERATURE HEAT SOURCE<br />

INJECTION MIXING PUMP<br />

RADIANT FLOOR - STAGE ONE HEAT<br />

HYDRONIC UNIT HEATER - STAGE TWO HEAT<br />

UNIT HEATER ZONE VALVE<br />

Experience is a<br />

great teacher. I<br />

have listened to<br />

many complaints<br />

over the years from<br />

people who wanted<br />

the ultimate in hydronic<br />

luxury and<br />

paid a big price to get it – only to be disappointed<br />

by the end result. I’m not<br />

talking about hydronic towel warmers,<br />

radiant bathroom warm floors or great<br />

room panel rads – I’m talking about<br />

something far more important – the<br />

heated garage/workshop. (Now you’re<br />

talking! – ed)<br />

You can tweak the interest of many<br />

consumers with granite counter tops,<br />

hot tubs, theater rooms and other such<br />

trivial luxuries for their new house, but<br />

one of the most appealing upgrades you<br />

can offer is a heated garage where they<br />

can keep not only their precious classic<br />

car, but keep themselves comfortable<br />

while they pursue their favorite hobby.<br />

The decision to heat a garage is a logical<br />

one when you have already decided<br />

to put in hydronic heating. The addition<br />

really adds minimal cost to the<br />

heating system and is easily done. The<br />

trick is to do it properly and avoid some<br />

of the most common mistakes I have<br />

seen over the years:<br />

Common complaint No. 1: Water<br />

collects on the floor and the air<br />

becomes laden with humidity.<br />

This year, we have had a pretty ugly<br />

winter all across this fine land. In years<br />

like this the complaints are numerous as<br />

people bring their snow encrusted cars<br />

cost of fuel these days, it is common to<br />

set the temperature in the garage down<br />

low (usually 5°C to 10°C), and turn it<br />

up to a more comfortable temperature<br />

only when it is being used. There are<br />

two very important design details that<br />

can make this type of operation work<br />

very well with a radiant slab-on-grade<br />

heating system.<br />

First of all, make sure the slab is insulated<br />

beneath the concrete so you aren’t<br />

sending all of your heat straight down<br />

to China. There is some controversy<br />

over the benefits of insulating under a<br />

slab where dry soil conditions exist,<br />

with some people claiming that once<br />

such a slab is up to temperature, the<br />

underlying soil acts as a big heat sink<br />

and stabilizes the temperature of the<br />

floor. These people may have a point<br />

with some specific slab heating applications,<br />

but not in buildings that are subject<br />

to rapidly fluctuating outdoor temperatures<br />

or systems where setback is<br />

regularly used.<br />

So definitely insulate, but even when<br />

you do, it can take quite a while for a<br />

garage to heat up even a few degrees<br />

and you run the risk of overheating the<br />

space. Temperature swings occur because<br />

there is always a lag between the<br />

time a thermostat is satisfied with the<br />

air temperature and the time the floor<br />

stops pumping heat into the room. A<br />

concrete slab is still a pretty big heat<br />

sink, even if it is properly insulated –<br />

which brings us to our second detail.<br />

Use a two-stage thermostat to operate<br />

a high output, low-mass heating unit to<br />

boost your air temperature in conjunction<br />

with your radiant slab. Some examples<br />

are: Fan coil type heaters (such as<br />

hydronic unit heaters, forced-flow heaters<br />

or air handlers), fin-tube convectors<br />

with lots of element, or panel radiators<br />

with lots of surface area. Each specific<br />

application will favour a different type of<br />

‘booster’ heat terminal unit.<br />

Some suspended unit heaters are no<br />

bigger than a breadbox, but put out<br />

many thousands of Btus and can bring a<br />

large garage up through 10°C in a matter<br />

of minutes. However, you would not<br />

want to use such a heater in a garage that<br />

also doubled as a woodworking shop,<br />

due to the fire hazard with sawdust.<br />

Panel radiators might be a better<br />

choice (no air blowing around and no<br />

coils to fill up with dust). Keep in mind<br />

that you may have two different water<br />

temperature requirements for this<br />

approach, mixed water for the slab, and<br />

high temperature water for the low<br />

mass heater. If you design the low mass<br />

heater for lower water temperatures you<br />

might get away with using a single<br />

mixed water temperature for both.<br />

into their nicely heated garages and<br />

watch helplessly as the snow and frozen<br />

mud plops off onto the floor and forms<br />

a rapidly expanding pool that soaks into<br />

the drywall, rusts any metal object on<br />

the floor (like that brand new table saw)<br />

and freezes the overhead door shut.<br />

When the water does evaporate, it<br />

fills the air with humidity which<br />

streams down and frosts over the windows<br />

and creates a clammy, mold-inducing<br />

atmosphere sure to cause no end<br />

of trouble down the road.<br />

A few simple design details can help<br />

you avoid all of this grief and give your<br />

customer the system they thought they<br />

were going to get when they hired you.<br />

First of all, put in a floor drain and<br />

properly slope the garage floor towards it<br />

so that excess moisture can drain away.<br />

Make sure you use a good quality drain<br />

that can be cleaned easily of all of the<br />

sand, gravel and other flotsam and jetsam<br />

that is brought in by your average car.<br />

Second, install a good exhaust fan (I<br />

have seen some people go as far as to<br />

put in an HRV) and operate it with a<br />

de-humidistat so you can chase that<br />

moist air outside. These two details are<br />

hugely important and, in my opinion,<br />

are an absolute necessity in order to<br />

make a cozy, clean work environment.<br />

Common complaint No. 2: Many<br />

garages in newer homes use a radiant<br />

slab as the heat source. This is a particularly<br />

elegant way to heat such a space,<br />

since it will help with problem No. 1<br />

(above) by speeding the evaporation of<br />

excess water on the floor, as well as providing<br />

a quiet and extremely comfort-<br />

Real life operation<br />

This may all seem a little extravagant<br />

for a mere garage, but let’s look at how<br />

this perfect garage system works in<br />

real life:<br />

You pull into your driveway after a<br />

hard day and you are looking forward to a<br />

good dinner and a couple of quiet hours<br />

to yourself afterwards: restoring your latest<br />

baby – a vintage Norton Commando<br />

able working space.<br />

you picked up last summer. (Sounds like<br />

1 WARM WATER HEAT SOURCE<br />

2 RADIANT FLOOR - STAGE ONE HEAT<br />

The problem is that it<br />

pure Heaven, but the wife might have<br />

3<br />

3 HYDRONIC UNIT HEATER - STAGE TWO HEAT<br />

takes too long to<br />

something to say about it! – ed)<br />

4 UNIT HEATER ZONE VALVE<br />

bring the garage up to<br />

You pop the garage door and the air<br />

4<br />

a comfortable working<br />

temperature from<br />

drops from plus 10°C to minus 10°C as<br />

temperature in your garage immediately<br />

M<br />

setback.<br />

it fills with cold outside air. Your twostage<br />

thermostat reacts immediately and<br />

1<br />

2<br />

Most homeowners<br />

only use their<br />

brings both your radiant slab and your<br />

garage/workshop on<br />

18,000 Btuh unit heater on full blast.<br />

- TWO STAGE GARAGE/WORKSHOP HEATING WITH A WARM WATER HEAT SOURCE (CONDENSING BOILER,<br />

HEAT PUMP, ELECTRIC BOILER, ETC.) - THE BOILER SUPPLIES WARM WATER TO BOTH THE RADIANT FLOOR<br />

SLAB AND THE UNIT HEATER AND THIS STARTS TO GET QUITE TRICKY -<br />

weekends or after<br />

After the door closes, the room immediately<br />

starts to warm up. You crank<br />

THE UNIT HEATER MUST BE OVER-SIZED IN ORDER TO PROVIDE SUFFICIENT HEAT AT THE LOWER WATER<br />

TEMPERATURES TYPICAL OF A RADIANT SLAB HEATING SYSTEM AND IN ADDITION, THE WATER TEMPERATURE work, and then for<br />

TO THE SLAB MAY HAVE TO BE ELEVATED MORE THAN NORMAL TO MAKE THE UNIT HEATER EFFECTIVE<br />

only a few hours at a<br />

the thermostat up to 20°C as you go into<br />

On the other hand, this system works well too.<br />

time. With the rising<br />

the house for dinner. All of the snow and<br />

slush drops off of the underside of your<br />

car and quickly melts on the warm floor.<br />

The water runs down the floor drain or<br />

INTRODUCING the NEW WD SERIES GREASE INTERCEPTORS... quickly evaporates. As the humidity<br />

COMPETITIVE, COMPACT, AND UNPARALLELED FLEXIBILITY<br />

rises, the de-humidistat turns on your<br />

www.wattsdrainage.ca<br />

heat recovery ventilator and exhausts<br />

Flow Rates from 4 to 75 GPM<br />

the moisture to the outside.<br />

By the time you’ve had dinner and<br />

Grease Capacity from 8 to 150 LBS<br />

watched the evening news, the garage is<br />

up to 20°C, the floor is dry and the unit<br />

Bolt-on Extensions available in two<br />

configurations for flexibility<br />

heater has kicked off leaving the radiant<br />

floor to quietly and gently warm the<br />

room. You go out into your warm garage<br />

and start stripping down the motor-<br />

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Other Commerical Drainage<br />

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cycle’s engine while your Husband finishes<br />

up the dishes. (Yikes!)<br />

MADE IN<br />

Floor Drains Parking Area Drains Trench Drains Roof Drains Special Purpose Drains Drain Pro CANADA<br />

Floor Sinks Grease Interceptors Oil Interceptors Solids Interceptors Hydrants Fixture Carriers Cleanouts<br />

Perfect.<br />

Circle Number 119 for More Information<br />

20 <strong>Plumbing</strong> & <strong>HVAC</strong> Product News – March/April <strong>2004</strong> www.plumbingandhvac.ca<br />

1<br />

- TWO STAGE GARAGE/WORKSHOP HEATING WITH A HIGH TEMPERATURE HEAT SOURCE -<br />

THE MIXING SYSTEM SUPPLIES WARM WATER TO THE RADIANT FLOOR SLAB AND THE UNIT HEATER<br />

IS SUPPLIED WITH HIGH TEMPERATURE WATER DIRECTLY FROM THE BOILER LOOP<br />

There are many ways to pipe garage heating. This is one good way, says Roy.<br />

3

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