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Eatdrink #54 July/August 2015

Local food and drink magazine serving London and Southwestern Ontario since 2007

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№ 54 | <strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2015</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 61<br />

Seeds are the heart of the story.<br />

Lloyd’s farm and Momoko’s<br />

garden have thousands of rare<br />

seeds, some of them the last<br />

specimens of their kind on Earth.<br />

They have been quietly nurturing,<br />

preserving, and distributing<br />

these natural treasures that might<br />

have gone extinct if not for their<br />

efforts. GMO plants can take over<br />

natural varieties, causing them<br />

to die out, but the activists and<br />

In Ruth Reichl’s book, Delicious! (2014),<br />

Billie Breslin finds herself in the midst of the<br />

New York food scene, learning everything<br />

she can from the cheese makers, butchers,<br />

chocolatiers, and food magazine<br />

editors she finds herself mingling<br />

with in her new job. Billie was a<br />

culinary prodigy who started a<br />

cake business with her sister at<br />

a young age, and seems to have<br />

quite a tongue for flavour. The<br />

story is infused with flavours and<br />

aromas that only a true gourmand<br />

and long-time restaurant critic,<br />

like Reichl, can relay. Billie fits<br />

right into the foodie lifestyle by<br />

visiting local farms, hunting for<br />

her own mushrooms, serving<br />

real Italian cheeses at a deli, all the while<br />

chiselling out a career as a food writer at an<br />

The food items paired together in Bread<br />

and Butter (2014) by Michelle Wildgen refer<br />

to the living that three brothers<br />

make in the restaurant business<br />

in their Pennsylvania hometown.<br />

The older two, Leo and Britt, are<br />

veterans in the industry with their<br />

joint restaurant, Winesap; they<br />

are supportive, but skeptical, of<br />

younger Harry opening up Stray<br />

in their small town. Working in<br />

tandem, the older brothers have<br />

their respective duties: Britt<br />

learns the dining preferences and<br />

aversions of regular customers at<br />

the front of house; Leo manages<br />

the kitchen crew. They’ve been in business<br />

long enough to know the rhythm of the<br />

kitchen and the flow of service which<br />

Wildgen describes in entertaining detail.<br />

Compared to his brothers, who opened<br />

their restaurant after years of hard work,<br />

farmers come together to propel<br />

their anti-corporate sentiments<br />

throughout the farming<br />

community. Ozeki’s compelling<br />

story is equally about political<br />

and agribusiness issues, and<br />

personal relationships and the<br />

dramas that they spawn. An<br />

apocalyptic, yet touching, climax<br />

pays tribute to the importance of<br />

humans standing up for nature.<br />

upscale food magazine called Delicious!<br />

In the magazine’s office, Billie unearths a<br />

secret stash of mysterious correspondence<br />

originally written to James Beard. The letters<br />

were written during World War<br />

II, by a young girl who is very<br />

mature and astute in her societal<br />

observations; her writing about<br />

wartime food conditions and<br />

rationing juxtaposes the gourmet<br />

world of Delicious! The letters give<br />

a taste of what wartime cooking<br />

was like, conveying that even<br />

though U.S. citizens needed to<br />

sacrifice certain food choices,<br />

it did not stop them from being<br />

creative in the kitchen. Billie<br />

becomes engrossed in reading<br />

and cataloguing the letters and her new project<br />

shrouds other problems in her family life.<br />

Harry is an adventurous experimenter<br />

in the kitchen who sets out to bring new<br />

perspectives of artisanal food<br />

creations to the sheltered<br />

scene of their hometown. Britt<br />

is jealous of Harry’s ease and<br />

randomness at moving into the<br />

business, but the three brothers<br />

share a love of the food industry.<br />

Wildgen writes with an eye<br />

for flavours that her readers<br />

can savour through words,<br />

and she expertly portrays the<br />

competitive and frantic lives of<br />

restaurateurs and chefs, coupled<br />

with a dash of sibling rivalry and<br />

off-duty romance outside the kitchen.<br />

DARIN COOK is a freelance writer who lives and works in<br />

Chatham-Kent, but keeps himself well-read and well-fed by<br />

visiting the bookstores and restaurants on London.

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