TRNOVSKI GOZD62Ja, včasih so bili trnovski gozdovi polni divjadi, še posebej jelenjadi, srnjadi,divjih koz, gamsov ali medvedov, ter divjih petelinov, ki so bili zelo priljubljenipri grofu Chambordu – ustrelil jih je namreč več deset.No, čisto na drugem koncu, na Mali Gori nad Zadlogom, srečam ZajčevegaMarjana, ki je več kot 40 let delal kot gozdar na Trnovski planoti. Njegovispomini na včasih prav nečloveško in naporno delo so težki, pa kljub temuje nasmeh ves čas zarisan na njegovem obrazu. Od njega izvem še za enopresenetljivo in ne tipično posebnost Trnovskega gozda, ki pa se je žalohranila le še na fotografijah in v pripovedovanjih domačinov. Na Mali Gorije namreč za časa Italije in vse do leta 1945 deloval mlin na veter. Res je, da jebilo v preteklosti, še pred dobrim stoletjem, na Slovenskem veliko mlinov naveter. Vendar so bili ti v največji meri posejani po Dravskem polju, Štajerski,eden je bil celo na Koprivniku nad Bohinjem, za tega na Trnovski planoti pasem slišal prvič. Mlinar Filip Viktelič, po domače Pri Košperju, je po vrnitvi izvojske v Rusiji, kjer je prvič videl te mline, menda rekel, »da jim denar enostavnopiha skozi prste«, in zastavil obrt, ki pa jo je prekinila huda poškodbaroke prav v mlinu.Na Mali Gori najdemo tudi Kalarjev ledenik, iz katerega so za časa Italije sekaliled in ga vozili v Trst. No, še bolj znana jama z večnim ledom in snegom jeVelika ledena jama v Paradani, ki je danes zavarovana kot naravni rezervat. Izomenjene jame so od druge polovice 19. stoletja naprej oskrbovali z ledomTrst, Gorico in Reko, izvažali so ga celo v Egipt, z njim so hladili goriško sadje,namenjeno za izvoz, saj hladilnic v tistih časih niso poznali. Podobno kot priSmrekovi dragi, ki je skupaj z Golaki razglašena za gozdni in naravni rezervat,je tu lepo viden toploten in rastlinski obrat.Nasploh je v Trnovskem gozdu kar hladno, na kar nas opominjajo metriin metri lesenih klafter na vsakem ovinku in pred domačijami. Povprečnaletna temperatura v njegovem osrednjem delu je od 7 do 9 stopinj Celzija,čemur poleg visoke nadmorske višine med 700 in 1495 metri botrujetudi burja, ki se s planote spušča proti morju. In prav burja je kriva še zaeno lokalno posebnost, nenavadne dimnike v zaselku Kovk. V starih časih,ko so bile hiše krite s slamnatimi strehami, se stara odprta ognjišča, črnekuhinje, kasneje tudi slabi dimniki skupaj z burjo niso najbolje znašli. Ženajmanjša iskrica, ki jih je burja raznašala kot žareče snežinke vsenaokoli, jetakoj pognala ogenj v streho, zato so dim speljali skozi brežino do dimnika,ki so ga sezidali za hišo. Danes stojijo v Kovku le še trije taki dimniki, od tehsta dva še vedno v stalni uporabi.Po Trnovskem gozdu, ki zna biti v svoji tišini tako čaroben, da ga le s težavozapustite, kaj šele pozabite, je speljanih nešteto poti. Tudi takih, ki vas zlahkazmedejo in odpeljejo nekam stran, da boste le težko našli pot nazaj. No,na takih poteh je najlepše, tam vas razen divjadi, šelestenja vetra in lastnihmisli ne bo motil nihče. Tja se odpravite peš ali s kolesom in seveda z dobrokarto, kompasom ali pa gps-om. Tja se odpravite iskat svoj mir in svojo pot.Ali pa prijateljstvo, kdo ve? In konec poti naj ne bo le čudovito razgledišče sKopitnika, Poldanovca, Mrazovca, Čavna ali Sinjega vrha. Ne, naj bo to šelezačetek novega raziskovanja, novih poti in novih zgodb, ki jih za vas skrivaTrnovski gozd. Naj bo to začetek novega prijateljstva!Kot vir nekaterih zgodb mi je bil vpomoč zanimiv zbornik Zgodbe sTrnovske planote, zbral in uredilJože Šušmelj, Goriška Mohorjevadružba, 2011, ki jo priporočam vbranje vsem ljubiteljem Trnovskegagozda in gora nasploh.
The Magical Trnovski gozdStories of the hidden trailstext and photography: Jože balas“Sitting on a summer evening somewhere on the edge of theTrnovska planota plain, at the crossroads (known locally as“križada”) near Krnica, offers a special kind of pleasure. All ofnature is preparing for a good night’s rest, and there is nothingbut peace all around – the kind of peace you only find in themountains. The Vipavsko region stretches out before you – theGoriška planjava plain with its low, rolling hills, all of Friuliand the <strong>Adria</strong>tic Sea, the peaks and hills of the Kras plain and,far away due west, as if through a thin grey mist, there is the tallframe of the rocky Italian mountains. All of this lies at your feetlike a large, open book of nature from which anyone can readwhenever they desire to.”With this article published in the Planinski vestnik in 1911 – more than a centuryago – Jakob Zupančič appealed to Slovenian and other mountain lovers,inviting them to visit the majestic and mysterious plain of Trnovo. It may seemuninteresting and boring at first glance, but the magical silence of its wild,expansive forests conceals countless sights and attractions, not to mention themost important treasure of the plain – the forests themselves. The fact that I can’teven decide where I should start speaks for itself. Should I begin my story and myjourney at Gora (Mountain), the local name for the part of Trnovski gozd (Trnovoforest) that lies between Predmeja and Kovk? Or maybe I should start in Trnovo,at the slightly higher altitude of Lokve or perhaps in Zadlog? On the other hand,I could also set off from Vipava and past the source of the Hubelj to the naturalsight of Otliško okno (Otlica window); then there is the Idrija direction that wouldtake me along the Belca Valley past the dam known as Belške klavže. Perhaps Ishould start in Vojsko, or take the Peternollijeva grapa ravine from the Trebušavalley, or maybe ... Yes, this majestic Kras plain, wild and shrouded in mystery, canbe reached by dozens of trails, each more beautiful than the last. For a long timein the past, the plain of Trnovo was too wild and inaccessible, its climactic conditionstoo extreme for it to be settled by people.It is believed that the first settlers on the Trnovski gozd plain were hunters, forestersand shepherds. The land register maintained by the Counts of Gorizia in theearly 16th century records several plains used as pasture land. This era also sawthe beginning of systematic forest management in Trnovo, one of the earliestin Europe. Forestry offices and registers were established, ordinances and “forestrules” issued, all of which restricted the use of forests for pasture land and woodfor personal needs – for survival. The fact is that the forest had long been usedby the poorest segment of the population to scrape out a living – they wouldhunt for wild game, graze cows and sheep and collect wood for long, cold winternights. They would also sell wood or trade it for food, since money was always inshort supply. But in general, the only people making a profit from the local woodwere the upper classes, who sold wood to Venetians.The earliest mentions of permanent settlements on the plain date back to the firsthalf of the 17th century, when the upper classes took note of the excellent opportunitiesfor forestry and hunting and began to support permanent settlement.Later, the population also increased thanks to the development of the glass andcharcoal industries, both of which required large quantities of wood – the onething that the forests of Trnovski gozd had in abundance. Glassblowers and theirglassworks (known as “glažute”) moved to Trnovski gozd from the Trebuša Valleywhere there was a shortage of wood. Silica sand, the basic material for glassmaking,had to be carried by hand up to the plain from the valley. From 1771 to 1830,there were two glassworks operating on the plain, one in Mrzla draga and theother in Mojska draga, although they were not in operation at the same time.63
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