TEXTILESro<strong>of</strong> provided them with the opportunity for combinationand insubordination.' Moreover the factorysystem was not really advantageous to the manufacturerbefore the introduction <strong>of</strong> power, because he couldpay lower wages to the <strong>women</strong> who worked at homethan to those who left their families .in order to workonhis premises. Thus the practice was dropped. In1603 the Wiltshire Quarter Sessions published regulationsto the effect that " Noe Clotheman shallkeepe above one lombe in his house, neither any weaverthat hath a ploughland shall keepe more than onelombe in his house. Noe person or persons shallkeepe any lombe or lombs goeinge in any other houseor houses beside their owne, or mayntayne any to doethe same."2Few references occur to the wives <strong>of</strong> successfulclothiers or wool-merchants who were actively interestedin their husband's business, though no doubttheir help was <strong>of</strong>ten enlisted in the smaller or morestruggling concerns. Thus the names <strong>of</strong> three widowsare given in a list <strong>of</strong> eleven persons who were usinghandicrafts at Maidstone. " The better sorte <strong>of</strong> thesewe take to bee but <strong>of</strong> meaneability and most <strong>of</strong> thempoore but by theire trade the poore both <strong>of</strong> the towneand country adjoyning are ymploied to ~p~nn~ng.:'~A pamphlet published in 1692 describes how informer days " the Clothier that made the cloth, sold itto the merchant, and heard the faults <strong>of</strong> his owncloth ; and forc'd sometimes not only to promiseamendment himself, but to go home and tell Joan, tohave the Wool better pick'd, and the Yarn betterspun."'A certain Rachel Thiery applied for a monopoly' See Weavers' Act, 1555.' Hirt MSS. Com. Var. Coll., Vol I., p. 75, Wilts. Q.S. Rec., 1603.S S.P.D., cxxix, 45, Ap. 10, 1622, Ret~rrn <strong>of</strong> the Mayor.' Clotbier's Complaint, etc., p. 7, 1692.TEXTILESin Southampton for the pressing <strong>of</strong> serges, and havingheard that the suit had been referred by the Queento Sir J. Czsar, the Mayor and Aldermen wrote,July 2, 1599, to let him know how inconvenient thegranting <strong>of</strong> the suit would be to the town <strong>of</strong> Southampton.I. Those strangers who have presses already wouldbe ruined.I I. Many <strong>of</strong> their men servants (English andstrangers) bred up to the trade would be idle.I I I. " The woeman verie poore and beggarlie,altogether unable to performe it in workmanshipp or. . . Againe she is verie idle, a prattlingotherwise.gossipp, unfitt to undertake a matter <strong>of</strong> so great acharge, her husband a poore man being departedfrom her and cornorant in Rochell these I I yeres at least.She is verie untrustie and approoved to have engagedmens clothes which in times past have beenputt to her for pressinge.Verie insufficient to answer<strong>of</strong> herself men's goodes and unable to procure anie goodCaution to render the owners there goodes againe,havinge not so much as a howse to putt her head in,insomuch as (marvellinge under what coullour she dothseeke to attaine to a matter <strong>of</strong> such weight) we . . .should hold them worsse than madd that would hazzardor comitt there goodes into her handes. And toconclude she is generallie held amongest us an unfittwoeman to dwell in a well governed Commonwealth."'An incident showing the wife as virtual manager <strong>of</strong>her husband's business is described in a letter fromThomas Cocks <strong>of</strong> Crowle to Sir Robert Berkely, Kt.:in 1633. He writes complaining <strong>of</strong> a certain Carelesswho obtained a licence to sell ale " because he was asurgeon and had many patients come to him for help,and found it a great inconvenience for them to go toremote places for their diet and drink, and in that-Lansdowne, 161, fo. 127,znd July, 1599
TEXTILES TEXTILES 103respect obtained a licence with a limitation to sell aleto none but his patients. . . but now <strong>of</strong> lateespecially he far exceeds his bounds.. . . A poorfellow who pr<strong>of</strong>essed himself an extraordinary carderand spinner . . . was <strong>of</strong> late set a work by mywife to card and spin coarse wool for blankets and whenhe had gotten some money for his work to Carelesshe goes." Having got drunk there and coming back inthe early hours <strong>of</strong> the morning he made such a noisein the churchyard " being near my chamber I wokemy wife who called up all my men to go into thechurchyard and see what the matter was."'That Mrs. Cocks should engage and direct her husband'sworkpeople would not be surprising to <strong>seventeenth</strong><strong>century</strong> minds, for <strong>women</strong> did so naturally infamily industry ; but when capitalized, business tendedto drift away beyond the wife's sphere, and thus eventhen it was unusual to find <strong>women</strong> connected withthe clothing trade, except as wage-earners.Of the processes involved in making cloth, weavingwas generally done by men, while the spinning, whichwas equally essential to its production, was exclusivelydone by <strong>women</strong> and children.In earlier days weavin'g had certainly been to someextent a woman's trade. " Webster " which is thefeminine form <strong>of</strong> the old term " Webber " is used inold documents, and in these <strong>women</strong> are also specificallynamed as following this trade ; thus on the Suffolk PollTax Roll are entered the names <strong>of</strong>"John Wros, shepherd.Agneta his wife, webster.Margery, his daughter, webster.Thomas his servant andBeatrice his servant."It appears also that there were <strong>women</strong> among theweavers who came from abroad to establish the clothmaking in England, for a Statute in 1271 provides thatBund U. W. W.) Worcestershire Recordr, Vol. I., p 530.6' all workers <strong>of</strong> woollen cloths, male and female,as well <strong>of</strong> Flanders as <strong>of</strong> other lands, may safely comeinto our realm there to make cloths . . . upon theunderstanding that those who shall so come and makesuch cloths, shall be quit <strong>of</strong> toll and tallage, and <strong>of</strong>payment <strong>of</strong> other customs for their work until the end<strong>of</strong> five years."'Later however, <strong>women</strong> were excluded from clothweaving on the ground that their strength was insufficientto work the wide and heavy looms in use ; thusorders were issued for Norwich Worsted Weavers in1511 forbidding <strong>women</strong> and maids to weave worstedsbecause " thei bee nott <strong>of</strong> sufficient powre to werkethe said worsteddes as thei owte to be wr~~ght."~Complaint was made in Bristol in 1461 that weavers" puttyn, occupien, and hiren ther wyfes, doughters,and maidens, some to weve in ther owne lombes andsome to hire them to wirche with othour persons <strong>of</strong>the said crafte by the which many and divers <strong>of</strong> theking's liege people, likely men to do the king servicein his wars and in defence <strong>of</strong> this his land, and sufficientlylearned in the said craft, goeth vagrant andunoccupied, and may not have their labour to theirliving."'At Kingston upon-Hull, the weavers Compositionin 1490, ordained that " ther shall no woman workein any warke concernyng this occupacon wtin thetowne <strong>of</strong> Hull, uppon payn <strong>of</strong> xls. to be devyded informe by fore reher~ed."~A prohibition <strong>of</strong> this character could not resist theforce <strong>of</strong> public opinion which upheld the woman'sclaim to continue in her husband's trade. Widow'srights are sustained in the Weaver's OrdinancesRiley. Chronzcles <strong>of</strong> London, p 142.Tingye, Norwzch Records, Vol II., p, 378.Lzttle Red Book <strong>of</strong>Brtstol, Vol. II., p. 127.Lambert, 2000 years <strong>of</strong> Gzld Lrfe, p. 6.
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WORKING LIFE OF WOMENIN THESEVENTEE
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CRAFTS AND TRADESThere were fewer r
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206 CRAFTS AND TRADES CRAFTS AND TR
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CRAFTS AND TRADESA large proportion
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214CRAFTS AND TRADES CRAFTS AND TRA
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218 CRAFTS AND TRADES CRAFTS AND TR
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222 CRAFTS AND TRADES CRAFTS AND TR
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CRAFTS AND TRADES CRAFTS AND TRADES
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CRAFTS AND TRADESfrom her fellow pa
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PROFESSIONS 237PROFESSIONSIntroduct
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24O PROFESSIONS PROFESSIONStheir Th
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244 PROFESSIONS PROFESSIONS 245the
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PROFESSIONS PROFESSIONS 249profanat
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252PROFESSIONSGiles Moore enters in
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PROFESSIONScribed as one who " dist
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PROFESSIONS PROFESSIONS 261first ma
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264 PROFESSIONSGarrett's leg shall
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268 PROFESSIONSwhere there are none
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PROFESSIONS PROFESSIONS 273the numb
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PROFESSIONSexaminations, before six
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PROFESSIONS PROFESSIONS 281death me
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284 PROFESSIONS PROFESSIONSof confi
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288 PROFESSIONSextent they were whe
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CONCLUSIONor in her other facilitie
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CONCLUSION CONCLUSION 297in women's
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CONCLUSIONlaw of Nature, inviolable
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CONCLUSIONwere specially deprecated
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308 CONCLUSIONof the State, and the
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312 AUTHORITIES AUTHORITIES 313Cost
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AUTHORITIESMartindale, Adam, The Li
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County.Buckingham ..Cardigan .. ..C
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INDEXINDEXFlax, 64, 146, 246, 291 ;
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INDEXsmants, women( 50,65,157 ; mam