124TEXTILES TEXTILESin the closely allied cotton trade, the union which wasthen called into being embraced men and <strong>women</strong> onalmost equal terms.The broad outline <strong>of</strong> the position <strong>of</strong> <strong>women</strong> in thewoollen trade as it was established in the <strong>seventeenth</strong><strong>century</strong> shows them taking little, if any, part in themanagement <strong>of</strong> the large and pr<strong>of</strong>itable undertakings<strong>of</strong> Clothiers and Wool-merchants. Their industrialposition was that <strong>of</strong> wage-earners, and though thedemand for their labour generally exceeded the supply,yet the wages they received were barely sufficient fortheir individual maintenance, regardless <strong>of</strong> the fact thatin most cases they were wholly or partly supportingchildren or other dependants.The higher rates <strong>of</strong> pay for spinning appear to havebeen secured by the <strong>women</strong> who did not dependwholly upon it for their living, but could buywool, spin it at their leisure, and sell the yarn in thedearest market ; while those who worked all theyear round for clothiers or middlemen, were <strong>of</strong>tenbeaten down in their wages and were subject toexactions and oppression.C. Linen.While the woollen trade had for centuries been developingunder the direction <strong>of</strong> capitalism, it was onlyin the <strong>seventeenth</strong> centuiy tbat this influence beginsto show itself in the production <strong>of</strong> linen. Following theexample <strong>of</strong> the clothiers, attempts were then made tomanufacture linen on a large scale.For example,Celia Fiennes describes Malton as a " pretty largetown built <strong>of</strong> Stone but poor; . . . there was cneMr. Paumes that marry'd a relation <strong>of</strong> mine, LordEwers' Coeheiress who is landlady <strong>of</strong> almost all yetown. She has a pretty house in the place. There isthe ruins <strong>of</strong> a very great house wWh belonged to yefamily but they not agreeing about it Caused ye defaceing<strong>of</strong> it. She now makes use <strong>of</strong> ye roornes <strong>of</strong>f yeout-buildings and gate house for weaving and Linningcloth, haveing set up a manuffactory for Linnen wh&does Employ many poor people."'In spite <strong>of</strong> such innovations the production <strong>of</strong> linenretained for the most part its character as one <strong>of</strong> the" yet left <strong>of</strong> that innocent old world." Thehousewife, assisted by servants and children span flaxand hemp for household linen, underclothes, children'sfrocks and other purposes, and then took her threadto the local weaver who wove it to her order. ThusRichard Stapley, Gent., enters in his Diary: " Aweaver fetched 11 pounds <strong>of</strong> flaxen yarn to make abedticke ; 2nd he brought me ten yds <strong>of</strong> ticking forye bed, 3 yds and $ <strong>of</strong> narrow ticking for ye bolster& for ye weaving <strong>of</strong> which I paid him 10s. and yeflax cost 8d. per pound. My mother spun it for me,and I had it made into a bed 'by John Dennit, a tailor,<strong>of</strong> Twineham for 8d. on Wednesday, July 18th, and itwas filled on Saturday, August 4th by Jonas Humphrey<strong>of</strong> Twineham for 6d. The weavcr brought it homeJuly 6th.' Similarly Sarah Fell enters in her Householdbook : " Nov. 18th, 1675, by m". pd. Geo. Bellweaver for workeinge 32 : ells <strong>of</strong> hempe tow cloth <strong>of</strong>Mothrs. at Id+ ell. ooo.04.00 "3By the industry and foresight <strong>of</strong> its female membersthe ordinary household was supplied with all itsnecessary linen without any need for entering themarket, the expenses <strong>of</strong> middlemen and salesmen beingso avoided. Nevertheless, it is evident that a considerablesale for linen had always existed, for the linendrapers were an important corporation in manytowns. This sale was increased through aninventi~nmade about the middle <strong>of</strong> the <strong>century</strong> : By printingpatterns on linen a material was produced which' Fiennes (Celia) p. 74.Pbrougb England on a S&-saddle.'Suss Arch. Col1 , Vol. I1 ,p. rzr. Extracts frmtbeDaary<strong>of</strong>Ricbard Stapley, Gent.,1682-1~2%a ell (Sarah) Hmuebold Accts., p. 233.
126 TEXTILES TEXTILESclosely imitated the costly muslins, or calicoes asthey were then called, imported from India ; but atso reasonable a price that they were within the reach <strong>of</strong>a servant's purse. Servants were therefore able to goout in dresses scarcely distinguishable from theirmistresses', and the sale <strong>of</strong> woollen and silk goods wasseriously affected. The woollen trade became alarmed ;riots took place ; weavers assaulted <strong>women</strong> who werewearing printed linens in the streets, and finally,Parliament, always tender to the woollen trade,which furnished so large a part <strong>of</strong> the national revenue,prohibited their use altogether. The linen printersrecognising that " the Reason why the English Manufacture<strong>of</strong> linnen is not so much taken notice <strong>of</strong> as theScotch or Irish, is this, the Englzsh is mostly consumedin the Country, . . . whereas the Scotch and Irishmust come by sea and make a Figure at our custom'shouse,"' urged in their defence that " the linensprinted are chiefly the Growth and Manufacture <strong>of</strong>North Britain pay gd. per Yard to the Crown, . . .and Employ so many Thousands <strong>of</strong> British poor, aswill undoubtedly entitle them to the Care <strong>of</strong> a BritishParliament.""But even this argument was unavailing against thepolitical influence <strong>of</strong> the woollen trade. The spirit<strong>of</strong> the time favouring the spread <strong>of</strong> capitalistic enterprisefrom the woollen trade into other fields <strong>of</strong> action,an attempt was now made to form a Linen Company.Pamphlets written for and against this project furnishmany details <strong>of</strong> the conditions then prevailingin the manufacture <strong>of</strong> linen. " How," it was said,will the establishment <strong>of</strong> a Linnen Company "affectthe Kingdom in the two Pillars that support it, that<strong>of</strong> the Rents <strong>of</strong> Land and the imploying our Shipsand Men at Sea, which are thought the Walls <strong>of</strong> the1 Case <strong>of</strong> Brrtzsb and Zrrrb Manujacturc <strong>of</strong> Lznncn.Case <strong>of</strong> tbe Lznen Drapers.Nation.127For the Rents <strong>of</strong> Land they must certainlvfall, for that one Acre <strong>of</strong> Flax will inlploy as manyHands the year round, as the Wool1 <strong>of</strong> Sheep thatgraze twenty Acres <strong>of</strong> Ground. The Linnen Manufactoryimploys few men, the Woollen most, Weaving,Combing, Dressing, Shearing, Dying, etc. These Eatand Drink more than Women and Children ; and soas the Land that the Sheep gaze on raiseth the Rent.so will the Arable and Pasture that bears Corn, andbreeds Cattle for their Subsistence. Then for theEmployment <strong>of</strong> our Shipping, it will never be pretendedthatwe can arrive to Exportation <strong>of</strong> Linnen ; thereare others and too many before us in that. . . . ThatProjectors and ourt tiers shoulil be inspired withNew Lights, and out <strong>of</strong> love to the Nation, createnew Methods in Trades, that none before found out ;and bp inclosing Commons the Liberty <strong>of</strong> Trade intoShares, in the first place for themselves, and then forsuch others as will pay for both, is, I must confess,to me, a Mystery I desire to be a Stranger unto . . .The very Name <strong>of</strong> a Company and Joint-Stock inTrade, is a spell to drive away, and keep out <strong>of</strong> thatplace where they reside, all men <strong>of</strong> Industry. . . .The great motive to Labour and Incouragement <strong>of</strong>Trade, is an equal Freedom, and that none may besecluded from the delightful Walks <strong>of</strong> Liberty . . .a Subjection in Mnnufactories where a People areobliged to one Master, rho' they hale the full Value<strong>of</strong> their Labour, is not pleasing, they think themselvesin perpetual Servitude, and so it is obserk ed in I?rlnnd,where the 1rt.h made a Trade <strong>of</strong> Linnen Yarn, noMan could ingage them, hut thev would go to theMarket and be better satisfied with a less price, thanto be obliged to one master. . . . There wasmuch more Reason for a Company and Joint-stock'0 set up the Woollen Manufa~tor~, in that ignorantAge, than there is for this <strong>of</strong> the Linnen Manufactorv ;that <strong>of</strong> the Woollen was a new Art not known in this
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WORKING LIFE OF WOMENIN THESEVENTEE
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4 INTRODUCTORYtragic class of wage
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8 INTRODUCTORY INTRODUCTORYDomestic
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INTRODUCTORYunmarried girls go out
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I 6 CAPITALISTS CAPITALISTS" I loos
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CAPITALISTSweak woman stands in the
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CRAFTS AND TRADESfrom her fellow pa
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PROFESSIONS 237PROFESSIONSIntroduct
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244 PROFESSIONS PROFESSIONS 245the
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PROFESSIONS PROFESSIONS 249profanat
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252PROFESSIONSGiles Moore enters in
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PROFESSIONScribed as one who " dist
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PROFESSIONS PROFESSIONS 261first ma
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264 PROFESSIONSGarrett's leg shall
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268 PROFESSIONSwhere there are none
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PROFESSIONS PROFESSIONS 273the numb
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PROFESSIONSexaminations, before six
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PROFESSIONS PROFESSIONS 281death me
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284 PROFESSIONS PROFESSIONSof confi
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288 PROFESSIONSextent they were whe
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CONCLUSIONor in her other facilitie
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CONCLUSION CONCLUSION 297in women's
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CONCLUSIONlaw of Nature, inviolable
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CONCLUSIONwere specially deprecated
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308 CONCLUSIONof the State, and the
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312 AUTHORITIES AUTHORITIES 313Cost
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AUTHORITIESMartindale, Adam, The Li
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County.Buckingham ..Cardigan .. ..C
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INDEXINDEXFlax, 64, 146, 246, 291 ;
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INDEXsmants, women( 50,65,157 ; mam