---P-I 4OTEXTILEScan be quoted <strong>of</strong> the independence, enterprise, andcapacity manifested by the prosperous <strong>women</strong> <strong>of</strong>the merchant class in London during the MiddleAges. Thus Rose de Burford, the wife <strong>of</strong> a wealthyLondon merchant, engaged in trading transactionson a large scale both before and after her husband'sdeath. She lent money to the Bishop in 1318, andreceived IOO Marks for a cope embroidered with coral.She petitioned for the repayment <strong>of</strong> a loan made byher husband for the Scottish wars, finally proposingthat this should be allowed her <strong>of</strong>f the customs whichshe would be liable to pay on account <strong>of</strong> wool aboutto be shipped from the Port <strong>of</strong> London.'It is, however, a long cry from the days <strong>of</strong> Rosede Burford to the <strong>seventeenth</strong> <strong>century</strong>, when" gentilwymmen and other wymmen <strong>of</strong> worship " nolonger made an honourable living by the silktrade; which trade, in spite <strong>of</strong> protecting statutes,had become the refuge <strong>of</strong> paupers.To obviate thedifficulties <strong>of</strong> an exclusive reliance on foreign suppliesfor the raw material <strong>of</strong> the silk trade, James I. orderedthe planting <strong>of</strong> ~o,ooo mulberry trees so that " multitudes<strong>of</strong> persons <strong>of</strong> both sexes and all ages, suchas in regard <strong>of</strong> impotence are unfitted for otherlabour, may bee set on worke, comforted andreleved."'The unsatisfactory state <strong>of</strong> the trade is shown ina petition from the merchants, silk men, and otherstrading for silk, asking for a charter <strong>of</strong> incorporationbecause "the trade <strong>of</strong> silke is now become greatwhereby . . . . customes are increased andmany thousands <strong>of</strong> poore men, <strong>women</strong> and childrensett on worke and mayntayned. And forasmuchas the first beginning <strong>of</strong> this trade did take its beingfrom <strong>women</strong> then called silk<strong>women</strong> who brought1 Bp kind permiation <strong>of</strong> Mios Eilecn Power.' S.P.D., xxvi., 6. Jan. I*.TEXTILES141upp men servants, that since have become free <strong>of</strong>all or moste <strong>of</strong> the several1 guilds and corporations<strong>of</strong> London, whose ordinances beeing for other particulartrades, meet not with, nor have power to reprovesuch abuses and deceipts as either have or are likelystill to growe upon the silk trade."'A petition from the Master, Wardens and Assistants<strong>of</strong> the Company <strong>of</strong> SilkThrowers, shows that bythis " Trade between Forty and Fifty thousand poorMen, Women and Children, are constantly Imployedand Relieved, in and about the City <strong>of</strong> London. . . . divers unskilful Persons, who never werebred as Apprentices to the said Trade <strong>of</strong> Silk-throwing,have <strong>of</strong> Late yearr intruded into the said Trade, andhave Set up the same ; and dwelling in Places beyondthe Bounds and Circuit <strong>of</strong> the Petitioners Search bytheir Charter, do useDivers Deceits in the Throwingand Working <strong>of</strong> the Manufacture <strong>of</strong> Silk, to the greatWrong and Injury <strong>of</strong> the Commonwealth, and thegreat Discouragement <strong>of</strong> the Artists <strong>of</strong> the said Trade."'An act <strong>of</strong> Charles 11. provided that men, <strong>women</strong> andchildren, if native subjects, though not apprentices,might be employed to turn the mill, tie threads, anddouble and wind silk, " as formerl~."~" There are here and there," it was said, " a SilkWeaver or two (<strong>of</strong> late years) crept into some citiesand Market Towns in England, who do employsuch people that were never bound to the Trade . .. . in all other Trades that do employ the poor,they cannot effect their business without employingsuch as were never apprentice to the Trade . . .the Clothier must eqnploy the Spinner and Stockcarder,that peradventure were never apprenticesto any trade, else they could never accomplish their' S.P.D., clxxv., 102, Nov. 25, 1630.' Humble Petrtion <strong>of</strong> the Master, Wardens and Assrstants <strong>of</strong> the Company <strong>of</strong> SzlkThrowers.Statutes 13 and 14, Charles II., c. 15.
142TEXTILES TEXTILES '43end. And it is the same in making <strong>of</strong> Buttons andBone lace, and the like. But it is not so in this Trade ;for they that have been apprentices to the Silk-weavingTrade, are able to make more commodities than canbe easily disposed <strong>of</strong> , , . . because there hathnot been for a long time any other but this, to placeforth poor men's Children, and Parish Boyes unto ;by which means the poor <strong>of</strong> this Trade have beenvery numerous."'During this period all the references to silkspinningconfirm the impression that it had becomea pauper trade. A pamphlet calling for the imposition<strong>of</strong> a duty on the importation <strong>of</strong> wrought silksexplains that " The Throwsters, by reason <strong>of</strong> thisextraordinary Importation <strong>of</strong> raw Silk, will employseveral hundred persons more than they did before,as Winders, Doublers, and others belonging to thethrowing Trade, who for the greatest part arepoor Seamen and Soldier's wives, which by thisIncrease <strong>of</strong> Work will find a comfortable Subsistencefor themselves and Families, and thereby take <strong>of</strong>f aBurthen that now lies upon several Parishes, whichare at a great charge for their S~pport."~ The" comfortable subsistence " <strong>of</strong> these poor seamen'swives amounted to no more than IS. 6d. or IS. 8d.per week.'There seems here no clue to explain the transitionfrom a monopoly <strong>of</strong> gentle<strong>women</strong> conducting apr<strong>of</strong>itable business on the lines <strong>of</strong> Family Industryto a disorganised Capitalistic Trade, resting on thebasis <strong>of</strong> <strong>women</strong>'s sweated labour. The earlier monopolywas, however, probably favoured by the expensivenature <strong>of</strong> the materials used, and the necessity' Trade $England, p. 18.' Answer to a Paper <strong>of</strong> Rejecttons, on the Project for laying a Dnty on EnglrsbWrought Stlks.' Casr <strong>of</strong>the Manufacturers $Gilt and Silver Wire, 1714.for keeping in touch with the merchants who importedthem, while social customs secured an equitabledistribution <strong>of</strong> the pr<strong>of</strong>its. With the destruction<strong>of</strong> these social customs and traditions, competitionasserted its sway unchecked, till it appeared asthough there might even be a relation betweenthe costliness <strong>of</strong> the material and the wretchedness<strong>of</strong> the <strong>women</strong> employed in its manufacture ; for the<strong>women</strong> who span gold and silver thread were inthe same stage <strong>of</strong> misery.Formerly <strong>women</strong> had been mistresses in this class<strong>of</strong> business as well as in the Silk Trade, but a Proclamation<strong>of</strong> June ~ ~ t 1622, h , forbade the exercise <strong>of</strong>the craft by all except members <strong>of</strong> the Company <strong>of</strong>Gold Wire Drawers.Under this proclamation the Silver thread <strong>of</strong> oneAnne Twiseltor was confiscated by Thomas Stockwood,a constable, who entered her hause and found herand others spinning gold and silver thread. " Thesaid Anne being since married to one John Bagshawehath arrested Stockwood for the said silver upon anaction <strong>of</strong> LIO, on the Saboth day going from Church,and still prosecuteth the suite against him in GuildHall with much clamor."' Bagshawe and his wifemaintained that the silver was sterling, and thereforenot contrary to the Proclamation. Stockwood refusedto return it unless he might have some <strong>of</strong> it. Thereforethey commenced the suit against him.Probably few, if any, <strong>women</strong> became members <strong>of</strong> theCompany <strong>of</strong> Gold Wire Drawers, and henceforward theywere employed only as spinners. Their poverty is shownby the frequency with which they are mentionedas inmates <strong>of</strong> tenement houses, which thrcugh overcrowdingbecame dangerous to the public health.It was reported to the Council for example, thatKatherine Barnaby " entertayns in her housc in GreatC.R., June 16, 1624.
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WORKING LIFE OF WOMENIN THESEVENTEE
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4 INTRODUCTORYtragic class of wage
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8 INTRODUCTORY INTRODUCTORYDomestic
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INTRODUCTORYunmarried girls go out
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I 6 CAPITALISTS CAPITALISTS" I loos
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CAPITALISTSweak woman stands in the
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24 CAPITALISTS CAPITALISTS 25wife t
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2 8 CAPITALISTS CAPITALISTS 29Majes
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32 CAPITALISTSA warrant was issued"
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CAPITALISTSbusiness. " At O~tend, N
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24O PROFESSIONS PROFESSIONStheir Th
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244 PROFESSIONS PROFESSIONS 245the
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PROFESSIONS PROFESSIONS 249profanat
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252PROFESSIONSGiles Moore enters in
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PROFESSIONScribed as one who " dist
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PROFESSIONS PROFESSIONS 261first ma
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264 PROFESSIONSGarrett's leg shall
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268 PROFESSIONSwhere there are none
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PROFESSIONS PROFESSIONS 273the numb
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PROFESSIONSexaminations, before six
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PROFESSIONS PROFESSIONS 281death me
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284 PROFESSIONS PROFESSIONSof confi
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288 PROFESSIONSextent they were whe
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CONCLUSIONor in her other facilitie
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CONCLUSION CONCLUSION 297in women's
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CONCLUSIONlaw of Nature, inviolable
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CONCLUSIONwere specially deprecated
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308 CONCLUSIONof the State, and the
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312 AUTHORITIES AUTHORITIES 313Cost
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AUTHORITIESMartindale, Adam, The Li
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County.Buckingham ..Cardigan .. ..C
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INDEXINDEXFlax, 64, 146, 246, 291 ;
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INDEXsmants, women( 50,65,157 ; mam