HELLO from KOREA

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Kimchi Tangy and hot, it’s the accent and counterpoint to a traditional meal of rice and soup, but nowadays, kimchi is turning up in pizzas and burgers, making it a most versatile ingredient, not to mention the test of a good cook. Even bachelors who can hardly cook to survive know how to transform leftover kimchi and rice into sizzling fried rice or bubbling kimchi stew. The process of making kimchi is an excellent example of how Korean women approach cooking. (Most men never enter the kitchen, and most women learn how to cook only after marrying, and under the tutelage of their mothers-in-law.) Measurements? A handful of this, a pinch of that. Food processors? Bare hands rigorously pound, mash, or rub. Fingers are dipped into the sauce for a taste. Seasonings are adjusted drop by drop. The best makers of kimchi are “old hands,” literally, because Korean cooking is very much a manual-intensive labor, and the best cooks are said to have a magic touch. No recipe book can subsitute for the years of trial and error necessary to develop the tastebuds to detect subtle variations of flavor and the intution to season accordingly. In the past, all the women who married into one family learned to make kimchi in the same kitchen with their mothers-in-law. The family’s distinctive flavor of kimchi has been handed down through generations. These days, fewer women have the time or space to make kimchi in the traditional way. With nuclear families now the rule, urban households living in apartments are unable to join together for Gimjang, the annual winter kimchi making during which enough batches are made to last several households all winter. kimchi used to be stored underground in earthen-ware jars that aided the fermentation process, but nowadays, special containers and even refrigerators are being developed to allow modern women to make smaller batches all year round. The easiest and quickest kimchi to make is mul kimchi, or water- kimchi. Slightly sweet and very refreshing, it’s the perfect comple-ment to heavy, rich dishes. Unlike most other forms of kimchi, this one does not require fermented salt shrimp paste (jeotgal), and is fermented within days. 109 _ Holidays and Food household and the guest. In the Joseon Dynasty, there were five kinds of settings for everyday meals, never mind feasts. Only the royals could afford and enjoy the 12-course meal. The yangban class (aristocrats) were entitled to 9- or 7-course. Commoners were limited to the 5- or 3-course, meals. Three-course may not sound like much, but a menu consisted of at least rice, soup, kimchi, three vegetable dishes, two broiled foods, and two salty condiments. Imagine then the daily fare of the royal court, and
110 _ HELLO from KOREA the kitchen that had to prepare it three times a day! Of course, not many people have such elaborate meals everyday now. But even a dish as simple as noodles requires side dishes that add the spice and bite that Korean food is so famous for. Anyone who has ever been to a Korean restaurant knows that eating is a communal ritual. The gas burner that each table comes equipped with cooks a single pot of stew or a pan of broiled meat or fish, from which everyone partakes. Friendships are sealed with the sharing of drinks, as one guest finishes a glass and passes it to another. Unsanitary? Not really. Many Koreans still feel that sharing a common cup or pot is the best way to share a comradely feeling.
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