HELLO from KOREA

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75 _ Lugares Dabotap and Seokgatap pagodas in Bulguksa Temple the two more established societies, Gyeongju began to flourish as a center of the arts and religion as well as politics. A consolidation of the already developed cultures of Baekje and Goguryeo, close links to the brilliant culture of Tang China, and the prominence of Buddhism were other factors that helped to establish Gyeongju's golden age. Gyeongju artisans were especially famed for their masonry and metalcraft. Unfortunately, Gyeongju's fortunes began to decline in the 9th century as Silla lost its luster and strength, finally falling in A.D. 935. Although it is no longer a major city, Gyeongju retains its distinction as the single most significant depository of Korea's cultural heritage in a land ravaged by war and invasions. Gyeongju's most famous landmark is Bulguksa Temple, built in A.D.535 and enlarged in A.D.751. Its name, meaning Land of Happiness, indicates the ebullient confidence of a country that lacked nothing. Originally the temple was made up of over 80 wooden buildings, but Bulguksa was scaled back in the Goryeo and Joseon dynasties (chal-
76 _ HELLO from KOREA Gold earrings from 5th or 6th century Silla Cheomseongdae Observatory lenges to Confucianism were systematically enfeebled or eradicated in Joseon), and almost completely obliterated by the 16 th century Japanese invasion. Reconstruction was attempted in bits and pieces but the temple was only restored to a measure of its former glory after its site was completely excavated from 1969 to 1973. All the stone structures, however, are the originals. Near the Gyeongju National Park is Cheomseongdae Observatory, the world's first known astronomical tower built sometime between 632 and 647. Apparently its unusual bottle shape is not the result of fancy; researchers believe that the tower was built according to complex mathematic formulae. The 12 stones of the base seem to correspond to the months of the year, and the 30 layers of stone represent the days of the month. The 24 stones that jut out at regular intervals correlate with the 24 seasonal subdivisions of the lunar-solar calendar. In all there are 366 stones, one for each day of the year. The crowning achievement of Buddhist Silla may be Seokguram Grotto, a granite-domed feat of engineering which houses a seated
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