CONSERVATIVE
eurocon_12_2015_summer-fall
eurocon_12_2015_summer-fall
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The construction of Dubrovnik<br />
By now, the mid-17th century, Dubrovnik had<br />
already reached its full urban development. Dubrovnik<br />
is often portrayed as a city of peace, of culture, of<br />
international values. And in recent times of course it<br />
has been. But, as the Senate insisted in 1430, when<br />
facing the threat of attack by Dubrovnik’s arch-enemy<br />
and neighbour, Radoslav Pavlović, the work on the city<br />
walls was to be carried out “non tanto per la belleza,<br />
quanto la forteza”: that is, these fortifications weren’t<br />
romantic props—they were for real.<br />
In the 14th century, the defences were erected<br />
against the Venetians. In the 15th century, especially<br />
after the fall of Constantinople, it was mainly against<br />
the Turks. This is the era of the construction first by<br />
Michelozzo Michelozzi and then by the great Juraj<br />
Dalmatinac of the MinčetaTower.<br />
In the 16th century, when Venice sought to<br />
use the wars of the Holy League as an excuse to<br />
seize Dubrovnik, the Revelin (at the Ploče gate)<br />
and the fortress of St. John were built and rebuilt.<br />
The fortification of the harbour is according to the<br />
conception of Dubrovnik’s great, long-serving and<br />
faithful city engineer, Paskoje Miličević. Miličević also<br />
designed and built my own favourite civic building—<br />
the Sponza Palace—and so well that it withstood the<br />
Great Earthquake, more than a century later.<br />
The Great Earthquake<br />
At eight o’clock in the morning on the<br />
Wednesday of Holy Week, the 6th April 1667, the<br />
Great Earthquake began. Within a few seconds a large<br />
part of the city’s buildings had collapsed. The great<br />
Gothic cathedral was among them. Boulders poured<br />
down from Mount Srđ. Panic and disorder broke out.<br />
About 2,000 people, a third of the city’s<br />
population, probably died; and perhaps another<br />
thousand or so were killed in the rest of the Republic.<br />
These are small figures to us, perhaps, but a true<br />
catastrophe for a city of 6,000 and a state of fewer<br />
than 30,000 souls.<br />
The Dubrovnik patriciate’s struggle to maintain<br />
VISITDALMATIA.COM<br />
An old printed map showing the ancient Republic of Ragusa<br />
and inbound merchant ships.<br />
the city’s independence, threatened by Venetians and<br />
Turks externally and by civil disorder within, is I think<br />
a truly inspiring one. But rather than pursue the course<br />
of the city’s reconstruction, I want to look at what had<br />
been taking place within Ragusan society and culture.<br />
Society<br />
I was gently criticised in one historian’s review<br />
of my book for succumbing to the myth propagated<br />
by Dubrovnik about itself. I don’t plead guilty: the<br />
myth reflected, as myths do, an important reality. But<br />
it’s certainly true that the Ragusan myth is seductive.<br />
Notably, Dubrovnik claimed to enjoy something<br />
called LIBERTAS—the slogan embossed on the<br />
flag of its merchant fleet. A famous passage in Ivan<br />
Gundulić’s poem, Dubravka, eloquently sums up the<br />
conviction. Gundulić, writing in 1627, contrasts the<br />
order, harmony, prosperity and above all freedom<br />
enjoyed by the inhabitants of the enchanted grove—<br />
Dubrovnik—with the conditions endured elsewhere<br />
in Dalmatia under Venetian rule.<br />
The triumphal chorus runs: O ljepa, o draga,<br />
o slatka slobodo, / Dar u kom sva blaga višnji nam bog je<br />
do, / Uzroče istini od naše sve slava, / Uresu jedini od ove<br />
A panoramic view of Dubrovnik taken from atop the old city walls.<br />
CHENSIYUAN/CC BY SA 2.0<br />
The European Conservative 23