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The construction of Dubrovnik<br />

By now, the mid-17th century, Dubrovnik had<br />

already reached its full urban development. Dubrovnik<br />

is often portrayed as a city of peace, of culture, of<br />

international values. And in recent times of course it<br />

has been. But, as the Senate insisted in 1430, when<br />

facing the threat of attack by Dubrovnik’s arch-enemy<br />

and neighbour, Radoslav Pavlović, the work on the city<br />

walls was to be carried out “non tanto per la belleza,<br />

quanto la forteza”: that is, these fortifications weren’t<br />

romantic props—they were for real.<br />

In the 14th century, the defences were erected<br />

against the Venetians. In the 15th century, especially<br />

after the fall of Constantinople, it was mainly against<br />

the Turks. This is the era of the construction first by<br />

Michelozzo Michelozzi and then by the great Juraj<br />

Dalmatinac of the MinčetaTower.<br />

In the 16th century, when Venice sought to<br />

use the wars of the Holy League as an excuse to<br />

seize Dubrovnik, the Revelin (at the Ploče gate)<br />

and the fortress of St. John were built and rebuilt.<br />

The fortification of the harbour is according to the<br />

conception of Dubrovnik’s great, long-serving and<br />

faithful city engineer, Paskoje Miličević. Miličević also<br />

designed and built my own favourite civic building—<br />

the Sponza Palace—and so well that it withstood the<br />

Great Earthquake, more than a century later.<br />

The Great Earthquake<br />

At eight o’clock in the morning on the<br />

Wednesday of Holy Week, the 6th April 1667, the<br />

Great Earthquake began. Within a few seconds a large<br />

part of the city’s buildings had collapsed. The great<br />

Gothic cathedral was among them. Boulders poured<br />

down from Mount Srđ. Panic and disorder broke out.<br />

About 2,000 people, a third of the city’s<br />

population, probably died; and perhaps another<br />

thousand or so were killed in the rest of the Republic.<br />

These are small figures to us, perhaps, but a true<br />

catastrophe for a city of 6,000 and a state of fewer<br />

than 30,000 souls.<br />

The Dubrovnik patriciate’s struggle to maintain<br />

VISITDALMATIA.COM<br />

An old printed map showing the ancient Republic of Ragusa<br />

and inbound merchant ships.<br />

the city’s independence, threatened by Venetians and<br />

Turks externally and by civil disorder within, is I think<br />

a truly inspiring one. But rather than pursue the course<br />

of the city’s reconstruction, I want to look at what had<br />

been taking place within Ragusan society and culture.<br />

Society<br />

I was gently criticised in one historian’s review<br />

of my book for succumbing to the myth propagated<br />

by Dubrovnik about itself. I don’t plead guilty: the<br />

myth reflected, as myths do, an important reality. But<br />

it’s certainly true that the Ragusan myth is seductive.<br />

Notably, Dubrovnik claimed to enjoy something<br />

called LIBERTAS—the slogan embossed on the<br />

flag of its merchant fleet. A famous passage in Ivan<br />

Gundulić’s poem, Dubravka, eloquently sums up the<br />

conviction. Gundulić, writing in 1627, contrasts the<br />

order, harmony, prosperity and above all freedom<br />

enjoyed by the inhabitants of the enchanted grove—<br />

Dubrovnik—with the conditions endured elsewhere<br />

in Dalmatia under Venetian rule.<br />

The triumphal chorus runs: O ljepa, o draga,<br />

o slatka slobodo, / Dar u kom sva blaga višnji nam bog je<br />

do, / Uzroče istini od naše sve slava, / Uresu jedini od ove<br />

A panoramic view of Dubrovnik taken from atop the old city walls.<br />

CHENSIYUAN/CC BY SA 2.0<br />

The European Conservative 23

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