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292 <strong>The</strong> collodion period<br />

always brought difficulties, for the coolies, who had not at first realized what they<br />

were undertaking, had a way <strong>of</strong> abandoning their burdens on the road and seeking<br />

refuge in native huts. Bourne <strong>of</strong>ten had to search for them, and to force them under<br />

threat <strong>of</strong> punishment to continue. A serious mishap occurred when two coolies carrying<br />

a large case <strong>of</strong> (unused) glass plates slipped on a steep mountain path, badly injuring<br />

themselves and letting the case roll down a thousand feet, for this accident<br />

necessitated a month's journey to the nearest town where glass could be bought. <strong>The</strong><br />

result <strong>of</strong> this tour was 500 negatives.<br />

Another expedition, in 1868, took Bourne to the higher Himalayas.23 Having this<br />

time sixty coolies, his main problem was the supply <strong>of</strong> fresh food. At a village called<br />

Mani at the foot <strong>of</strong> the Manirung Pass, the peasants used every possible argument to<br />

dissuade Bourne from crossing the pass, and to go by an easier route. <strong>The</strong> reason for<br />

their anxiety lay in the fact that Bourne insisted on hiring twenty extra men and buying<br />

additional food, for the pass was long and difficult. <strong>The</strong> village elders pleaded<br />

that they could spare neither men nor food, but Bourne remained unmoved, at last<br />

obtaining the men and supplies: bags <strong>of</strong> flour, a drove <strong>of</strong> sheep and goats, a yak for<br />

him to ride on, and three ponies for his servants. We can hardly imagine the extraordinary<br />

sight <strong>of</strong> that army <strong>of</strong> eighty men ascending the J\1anirung Pass, driving in<br />

front <strong>of</strong> them their live food supply. On the top <strong>of</strong> the pass, 18,600 ft up, Bourne<br />

managed to obtain three views before clouds came up. Until I 880 that was the greatest<br />

altitude at which photographs had been taken ;24 everybody suffered from headache,<br />

and the coolies lay down groaning and wanting to be left to die. Finding that<br />

persuasion was <strong>of</strong> no avail, Bourne had to use coercion to get his men on the march<br />

agam.<br />

<strong>The</strong> mountaineering part <strong>of</strong> this expedition was in itself a stupendous feat. Bourne<br />

relates that they had to descend a mile-long slope, almost a precipice; the next day<br />

they climbed 5 miles on a ledge so narrow that the intrepid explorer dared not look<br />

down. What the coolies, encumbered with heavy baggage, felt, is left to one's<br />

imagination. But the worst was still to come. Having pitched camp for two days and<br />

nights I 4,000 ft up on a broad open glacier in snow and sleet and icy wind, Bourne<br />

discovered to his consternation that only one day's food remained, for the headman<br />

had disobediently bought only half the quantity ordered from the last village.<br />

Reckoning that they were three days from the next settlement, Bourne sent two men<br />

hurriedly in advance, while the main party continued at caravan speed. Eventually<br />

the men returned with food, but only after the coolies had been two days without<br />

any, and exhausted with hunger and cold, had become desperate. 'Had not relief<br />

come when it did', Bourne remarked drily, 'I do not know what might have been<br />

the consequence. <strong>The</strong>y would probably have done for me, as the author <strong>of</strong> their<br />

misery.' Towards the end <strong>of</strong> the journey, the man carrying the nitrate <strong>of</strong> silver bath<br />

fell and broke it, and as Bourne lacked this chemical, the photographic activities<br />

came to an abrupt end. <strong>The</strong>re was no alternative but to push on by the quickest route<br />

to the nearest civilized station, seven days' march distant. Sending a man ahead to<br />

order replacement by telegraph, Bourne obtained the chemical four days after reaching<br />

the town.<br />

This description is necessarily shorn <strong>of</strong> many <strong>of</strong> the adventures with which Samuel<br />

Bourne enlivened his narratives, but we may at least have succeeded in conveying an<br />

impression <strong>of</strong> a truly unique achievement. 'I think photographic enthusiasm could<br />

not go much farther than this,' remarked Bourne.

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