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1859 March | April 2016

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FOOD & HOME<br />

home grown chef<br />

The Cheese<br />

Apprentice<br />

Home Grown Chef<br />

written by Thor Erickson<br />

A FEW YEARS BACK, I had a job<br />

as the chef at a restaurant in Bend.<br />

About a week after I started, I was<br />

preparing for dinner service when<br />

a man walked through the back<br />

door. He was wearing white rubber<br />

boots and carried a small ice chest.<br />

With purpose, he headed straight<br />

for the walk-in refrigerator. About<br />

twenty minutes passed and he was<br />

still in there, amid the bustle of<br />

line-cooks going in and out of the<br />

fridge. When he finally emerged, I<br />

introduced myself and asked him<br />

what he was doing. His name was Pierre and he was one of our<br />

cheese suppliers, dropping off an order. “Why were you in there<br />

for so long?” I asked. “I was looking at all of your other cheese,”<br />

he said, and walked out the door. Over the next few months, I<br />

got to know Pierre. He was an American with Franco-Belgian lineage<br />

and a “strictly business” demeanor. He made wonderful goat<br />

cheese. I found myself using his cheese in many ways—it fueled<br />

my creativity. I started to flavor his chèvre with applewood smoke.<br />

Pierre was always curious how we used his cheese, but I was worried<br />

that he may not approve of my latest effort.<br />

One day he caught me red-handed. I was pulling the chèvre<br />

from the smoker. I opened one of the cheesecloth-wrapped cylinders<br />

of smoked cheese and gave him a sample. He nodded and<br />

walked away without a word. A day later, he called me. “That<br />

smoked cheese was fantastic,” he said, with an unusually upbeat<br />

tone. “You must show me how to do that.” I told Pierre that if he<br />

taught me to make goat cheese, I would show him how to smoke<br />

it. A few months later, I was an apprentice cheesemaker in the<br />

morning, and running a busy kitchen at night. Through that apprenticeship,<br />

Pierre and I developed “Thor’s Special Smoked”<br />

chèvre. This dressing is inspired by that experience.<br />

Rob Kerr<br />

Heidi Weiss-Hoffman<br />

Smoked Bleu Cheese Dressing<br />

<strong>1859</strong>’s Home Grown Chef Thor Erickson<br />

2 ounces Rogue Creamery smokey blue cheese, crumbled<br />

¼ cup buttermilk<br />

¼ cup sour cream<br />

¼ cup mayonnaise<br />

Juice of ¼ lemon, or to taste<br />

Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper<br />

In a small bowl, stir to combine all ingredients. Pour over salad or roasted<br />

vegetables, or use as a dip. Keep leftovers refrigerated for up to one week.<br />

108 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL <strong>2016</strong><br />

MORE ONLINE Video: How to make the perfect baguette <strong>1859</strong>magazine.com/homegrownchef

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