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Winter 2010

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left: McMenamins, where fun, history and beer play<br />

nicely. above: The Fulton Pub in Portland circa 1989—one<br />

of the early microbrew pubs. right: Brewers from Silver<br />

Moon Brewery Travis West and Evan Taylor sport medals<br />

from the American Beer Awards.<br />

The McMenamin brothers, together with a group of Portlandarea<br />

brewers including: Richard and Nancy Ponzi of Columbia<br />

River Brewing (now BridgePort Brewing); Art Larrance and Fred<br />

Bowman of Portland Brewing; Kurt and Rob Widmer, of Widmer<br />

Brothers Brewing, all decided to write a bill that would change<br />

the law in Oregon.<br />

“Our bill kept getting killed and killed and killed,” Mike Mc-<br />

Menamin recalls. “Finally it was attached to a bill to allow Coors<br />

to sell their beer in Oregon. We thought this was the death knell<br />

for us, but, to our amazement, the bill cruised through.”<br />

The law had the effect of manifest destiny across Oregon<br />

with innovation and collaboration at its heart. New brewpubs<br />

sprang up and the brewing craft was once again in high<br />

demand in Oregon. In the ensuing years, stouts sprouted in<br />

Newport, porters surfaced in Portland and, soon, pale ales<br />

took on prominence in Bend.<br />

Rob Widmer recalls the genesis for one of Oregon’s food groups,<br />

Widmer Hefeweisen, with this story: “We started with an Altbier,<br />

which is still a beer-geek’s favorite, but was a bit too much<br />

for most beer drinkers at the time. We needed something more<br />

approachable and wanted to do it in a German style, which was<br />

the niche we were carving out. We knew the Germans brewed<br />

a blond wheat beer, and we set out to make our own using our<br />

Altbier yeast.”<br />

The result was a cloudy unfiltered Widmer Hefeweizen that<br />

was puzzling to the average consumer. Fear of the unknown lay<br />

between that murkiness and the beer’s commercial success.<br />

“But one night, when the Hefeweizen was new at the Dublin<br />

Pub, the owner, Carl Simpson, said to me, ‘Watch this,’” Widmer<br />

recalls. Simpson then poured pints of the Hefeweizen and put<br />

them on a tray garnished with cut lemon slices. He handed the<br />

tray to a waitress, who paraded around the pub with the tray and<br />

its intriguing residents. “By 11 that night, everyone in the pub<br />

was drinking the Hefeweizen, and the word of how good it was<br />

b y t h e n u m b e r s<br />

Total economic impact from the beer industry on Oregon’s<br />

economy: $2.25 billion.<br />

Over the last five years, Oregon breweries created 2,300 jobs.<br />

Over the last five years, Oregon-brewed beer consumed in<br />

Oregon rose to 12% from 9.9%.<br />

Oregon is the second largest producer of craft beer in the U.S.<br />

About 12% of the total beer consumed in Oregon in 2008 was<br />

Oregon craft beer- the highest percentage of local craft beer<br />

consumption in the country. The national average for total<br />

craft beer consumption by volume is 4%.<br />

Oregon is the second largest hop-growing state in the country.<br />

There are currently 73 brewing companies, operating 96<br />

brewing facilities in Oregon.<br />

There are 30 breweries operating in Portland, more than any<br />

other city in the world.<br />

The Portland metro area is the largest craft brewing market<br />

in the US.<br />

Source: Oregon Brewers Guild<br />

38 1859 oregon's magazine winter <strong>2010</strong>

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