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Winter 2010

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Stuffed Salmon with Bay Shrimp & Crab<br />

(serves 4)<br />

From McCormick & Schmick’s Seafood Restaurants<br />

Stuffed Salmon<br />

1 cup beurre blanc sauce (recipe below)<br />

4 5-ounce salmon fillets<br />

6 ounces bay shrimp<br />

6 ounces Dungeness crab meat<br />

6 ounce brie cheese, cut into ½ inch cubes<br />

3 tablespoon mayonnaise<br />

1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill<br />

Pinch of salt and pepper<br />

Preheat oven to 400°F. Prepare the beurre<br />

blanc sauce and set aside. Split the salmon<br />

fillets lengthwise to form a pocket for the<br />

stuffing. Combine the shrimp, crab, brie, dill,<br />

salt and pepper. Gently blend in the mayonnaise<br />

to bind the mixture. Divide the stuffing<br />

mixture between the four pocketed fillets.<br />

When full, let the flaps cover the stuffing so<br />

that only a small amount is exposed. Bake in<br />

a lightly buttered baking dish for 10 to 12 minutes.<br />

Transfer to dinner plates and spoon the<br />

beurre blanc over the fish. Combine wine,<br />

vinegar, peppercorns and shallot in a noncorrosive<br />

saucepan (stainless steel, Teflon,<br />

Beurre Blanc Sauce<br />

(makes 1 cup)<br />

6 ounces white wine<br />

3 ounces white wine vinegar<br />

3 whole black peppercorns<br />

1 shallot, quartered<br />

1 cup heavy cream<br />

6 ounces cold, unsalted butter,<br />

cut into pieces<br />

3 ounces cold, salted butter,<br />

cut into pieces<br />

Calphalon). Reduce until the mixture is just 1 to<br />

2 tablespoons and has the consistency of syrup.<br />

Add the cream and reduce again until the mixture<br />

is 3 to 4 tablespoons and very syrupy. Remove<br />

the pan from heat. Add the butter pieces,<br />

about 2 ounces at a time, stirring constantly and<br />

allowing each piece to melt in before adding<br />

more. (If the mixture cools too much, the butter<br />

will not melt completely and you will have<br />

to reheat it slightly. Strain and hold warm on a<br />

stove-top trivet or in a double-boiler over very<br />

low heat until you are ready to use.<br />

“Voila! It was a picnic that was just<br />

over-the-top delicious,” Newman recalls.<br />

“It was the picture of bounty, and how<br />

fortunate we are here.”<br />

In Portland, Dungeness appears on<br />

seasonal menus at Jake’s Famous Crawfish,<br />

a downtown landmark for more<br />

than 110 years and considered one of<br />

America’s top seafood restaurants. It<br />

features more than thirty types of fresh<br />

fish and seafood, with an emphasis on<br />

traditionally prepared fresh Northwest<br />

products.<br />

It is one of the McCormick &<br />

Schmick’s Seafood Restaurants, where<br />

Bill King is vice president of training<br />

and culinary development. King came<br />

to Oregon thirty-two years ago, after<br />

beginning his career on the Atlantic<br />

Coast, in and around his hometown,<br />

Wilmington, Delaware.<br />

Dungeness is as popular in Oregon<br />

today as it was then, King says. He considers<br />

the subtle sweetness of the meat best<br />

suited to being served cold, in salads and<br />

appetizers.<br />

“I love nothing more than eating a whole<br />

crab in the shell, cracking it, and taking<br />

the time to pick it apart and eating it cold,<br />

dipped in mayonnaise with a little Tabasco,”<br />

he says. “The absolute premier portion<br />

of crab is the legs, when you get the<br />

white meat out of the shell, you have these<br />

football shaped pieces that are as sweet as<br />

anything, and they have a little more flavor<br />

and body and great texture.”<br />

The texture holds up well to being sautéed,<br />

in crab cakes and used in stuffing, for<br />

dozens of recipes, says King, whose cookbook,<br />

A Chef’s Bounty, has recipes featuring<br />

crab and other local ingredients—from<br />

Marionberry elk chops to hazelnut-crusted<br />

venison.<br />

The process of deftly extracting crab<br />

from its shell and savoring each bit is a<br />

gastronomic pleasure linked to one of<br />

King’s best memories. He had just begun<br />

working as a chef at the original McCormick<br />

& Schmick’s, formerly on First and<br />

Oak streets in Portland. It was one of the<br />

first dinner dates he ever had with his<br />

wife, Jennifer, whom he had been dating<br />

for about six months.<br />

“We each ordered Dungeness crab, and<br />

we sat and ate and talked, sipping some crisp<br />

white wine for about three hours, picking<br />

away at the crab and getting to know each<br />

other,” King says. “I have vivid memories of<br />

that, and that’s part of why I still love eating<br />

Dungeness that way today.”<br />

1859 oregon's magazine winter <strong>2010</strong> 67

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