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Stuffed Salmon with Bay Shrimp & Crab<br />
(serves 4)<br />
From McCormick & Schmick’s Seafood Restaurants<br />
Stuffed Salmon<br />
1 cup beurre blanc sauce (recipe below)<br />
4 5-ounce salmon fillets<br />
6 ounces bay shrimp<br />
6 ounces Dungeness crab meat<br />
6 ounce brie cheese, cut into ½ inch cubes<br />
3 tablespoon mayonnaise<br />
1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill<br />
Pinch of salt and pepper<br />
Preheat oven to 400°F. Prepare the beurre<br />
blanc sauce and set aside. Split the salmon<br />
fillets lengthwise to form a pocket for the<br />
stuffing. Combine the shrimp, crab, brie, dill,<br />
salt and pepper. Gently blend in the mayonnaise<br />
to bind the mixture. Divide the stuffing<br />
mixture between the four pocketed fillets.<br />
When full, let the flaps cover the stuffing so<br />
that only a small amount is exposed. Bake in<br />
a lightly buttered baking dish for 10 to 12 minutes.<br />
Transfer to dinner plates and spoon the<br />
beurre blanc over the fish. Combine wine,<br />
vinegar, peppercorns and shallot in a noncorrosive<br />
saucepan (stainless steel, Teflon,<br />
Beurre Blanc Sauce<br />
(makes 1 cup)<br />
6 ounces white wine<br />
3 ounces white wine vinegar<br />
3 whole black peppercorns<br />
1 shallot, quartered<br />
1 cup heavy cream<br />
6 ounces cold, unsalted butter,<br />
cut into pieces<br />
3 ounces cold, salted butter,<br />
cut into pieces<br />
Calphalon). Reduce until the mixture is just 1 to<br />
2 tablespoons and has the consistency of syrup.<br />
Add the cream and reduce again until the mixture<br />
is 3 to 4 tablespoons and very syrupy. Remove<br />
the pan from heat. Add the butter pieces,<br />
about 2 ounces at a time, stirring constantly and<br />
allowing each piece to melt in before adding<br />
more. (If the mixture cools too much, the butter<br />
will not melt completely and you will have<br />
to reheat it slightly. Strain and hold warm on a<br />
stove-top trivet or in a double-boiler over very<br />
low heat until you are ready to use.<br />
“Voila! It was a picnic that was just<br />
over-the-top delicious,” Newman recalls.<br />
“It was the picture of bounty, and how<br />
fortunate we are here.”<br />
In Portland, Dungeness appears on<br />
seasonal menus at Jake’s Famous Crawfish,<br />
a downtown landmark for more<br />
than 110 years and considered one of<br />
America’s top seafood restaurants. It<br />
features more than thirty types of fresh<br />
fish and seafood, with an emphasis on<br />
traditionally prepared fresh Northwest<br />
products.<br />
It is one of the McCormick &<br />
Schmick’s Seafood Restaurants, where<br />
Bill King is vice president of training<br />
and culinary development. King came<br />
to Oregon thirty-two years ago, after<br />
beginning his career on the Atlantic<br />
Coast, in and around his hometown,<br />
Wilmington, Delaware.<br />
Dungeness is as popular in Oregon<br />
today as it was then, King says. He considers<br />
the subtle sweetness of the meat best<br />
suited to being served cold, in salads and<br />
appetizers.<br />
“I love nothing more than eating a whole<br />
crab in the shell, cracking it, and taking<br />
the time to pick it apart and eating it cold,<br />
dipped in mayonnaise with a little Tabasco,”<br />
he says. “The absolute premier portion<br />
of crab is the legs, when you get the<br />
white meat out of the shell, you have these<br />
football shaped pieces that are as sweet as<br />
anything, and they have a little more flavor<br />
and body and great texture.”<br />
The texture holds up well to being sautéed,<br />
in crab cakes and used in stuffing, for<br />
dozens of recipes, says King, whose cookbook,<br />
A Chef’s Bounty, has recipes featuring<br />
crab and other local ingredients—from<br />
Marionberry elk chops to hazelnut-crusted<br />
venison.<br />
The process of deftly extracting crab<br />
from its shell and savoring each bit is a<br />
gastronomic pleasure linked to one of<br />
King’s best memories. He had just begun<br />
working as a chef at the original McCormick<br />
& Schmick’s, formerly on First and<br />
Oak streets in Portland. It was one of the<br />
first dinner dates he ever had with his<br />
wife, Jennifer, whom he had been dating<br />
for about six months.<br />
“We each ordered Dungeness crab, and<br />
we sat and ate and talked, sipping some crisp<br />
white wine for about three hours, picking<br />
away at the crab and getting to know each<br />
other,” King says. “I have vivid memories of<br />
that, and that’s part of why I still love eating<br />
Dungeness that way today.”<br />
1859 oregon's magazine winter <strong>2010</strong> 67