KACHEN #21 (Winter 2019) English edition

PORTRAIT OF A CHEF
JEAN-CHARLES HOSPITAL
DARE TO HAVE MORE FUN
"I completely freed myself from this
pressure," says Jean-Charles Hospital
(50). He smiles. "One day I simply told
myself: stop it, Jean-Charles. Now it’s
time to have some fun. Only fun." The
pressure is this: everything in connection
with a Michelin star and other
prizes. The fun: the oven in Le Bistronome
in the Route d’Arlon. Hospital
has worked here, in
his own kitchen, since
July 14th 2010. "I can
cook whatever I feel
like without having
to think about certain
criteria, which I might
have to fulfil to get a
star." The stars are not
strangers to him, nor
is their attraction. The man from the
Champagne region learnt the trade
of pâtissier, chocolatier, and glacier
at the school of hotel management in
Saint-Didier, and won a gold medal
for being the best trainee in France.
For his military service he spent two
years in Washington DC as the personal
cook to the French military
attaché. "I was twenty years old and
did not have a lot of experience. But
I got to meet the French Minister of
Defence and the American President."
After that he worked with the starred
chef Didier Delu in Paris for a year
and then for two years with Roger
Souvereyns, the chef of the legendary
Scholteshof in the Belgian city
of Hasselt. He was chef-patissier in a
two star establishment. "I was given
free reign in creating the menu," he
remembers, "and Souvereyns impressed
me with his savoir-faire in
the kitchen and through his innovative
taste. Aesthetic taste, too." Then
he made the change to starred chef
Rik Vandersanden not far away at
"You can do a lot
of wonderful things
with those if the
preparation is
good and the
ingredient fresh."
De Barrier in Houthalen. Here, in Flanders, far away from French cuisine, he
learnt to perfect his English surrounded by cooks from all over the world. He
stayed for seven years: "That’s a long time in this profession."
The Luxembourgish leg of his journey started about 20 years ago when he
joined Pascal Brasseur in the restaurant Wengé as chef. "For nine years he
put his faith in me. That was so important to me," says Hospital, "I could do
what I wanted in the kitchen. That was a good opportunity to put myself out
there in Luxembourg." Then, he and Philippe L’Hôpital opened Le Bistronome
together, with the energetic support of gastronomic advisor Tony Tintinger
("he helped us a lot"). The distribution of tasks is clear: the
kitchen is Hospital’s responsibility; L’Hôpital takes care of the
service.
"It’s not an easy kitchen but a kitchen with several techniques
and in which one respects the simple products of the
season," Hospital defines his work thus. "Everything depends
on the chef," he says. He has to constantly "question himself".
Everything is always changing. For example, for three years
now business meals have been happening less often, are
becoming shorter and faster. And the clients are getting
younger. "You have to move with the times." For Le Bistronome that means
that Hospital has reduced the offer of first courses and main dishes somewhat,
and reduced the price of the three-course Menu du Marché from 41 to 39 euros.
"I also use fewer noble ingredients, which are already so expensive when
buying and some clients find those prices exorbitant." That means less turbot,
John Dory, and crayfish, more gilthead or monkfish. "You can do a lot of
wonderful things with those if the preparation is good and the ingredient
fresh."
He feels at home in Luxembourg, which is also where his son was born. "The
Luxembourgish people have given me a lot of their trust. The country is
beautiful and green and has a great location in Europe." Le Bistronome is
closed on Sundays and Mondays, as well as at Christmas and in the summer
holidays. "You have to protect family life." That, he says, is important: "I really
did not want my wife to work with me in the business." He is determined
to protect his emotional and family life. "I’ve seen too many bad examples."
Naturally, he still cooks at Christmas and on holidays, "but only with family
and friends. Completely relaxed. And with an open bottle of wine in the
kitchen. That’s real pleasure."
LE BISTRONOME
373, Route dʼArlon — L-8011 Strassen
Tel. +352 / 26 31 31 90
bistronome.lu
81
KACHEN No.21 | WINTER 19