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KACHEN #21 (Winter 2019) English edition

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RESTAURANT PORTRAIT<br />

WINDS OF CHANGE<br />

WITH RESTAURANT CHIGGERI<br />

Young, creative and engaged – and yet willing preserve<br />

the good qualities of the old – that’s what Joao and Sandra<br />

Ramos stand for. In March 2017 they took over the traditional<br />

restaurant Chiggeri in the Rue du Nord. What has<br />

not changed is the decor of the historic city palace. Time<br />

seems to have stood still in the labyrinthine former private<br />

home of the Feltes family. There are original wood<br />

floors, unsymmetrical and occasionally small rooms, and<br />

a steep and narrow wooden staircase. Exhausting for the<br />

service but certainly charming. Every room, from the conservatory<br />

to the private salon to the romantic bay with a<br />

view on Kirchberg, has its own special atmosphere. “We<br />

have not changed the existing décor,” says Sandra Ramos,<br />

“instead, we changed the philosophy and the menu.” Previously,<br />

the brasserie downstairs and<br />

the gastronomic restaurant on the<br />

first floor were separate but that’s not<br />

the case anymore. “All our guests get<br />

the same food and wine menu and<br />

can then decide if they would rather try our bistro menu or<br />

the gastronomic choice. They are free to eat a hamburger<br />

at our most beautiful table.”<br />

“The dishes on our menu<br />

are ones which have withstood<br />

the rigorous family testing.”<br />

The menu is small but select. The creative side of chef<br />

Joao Ramos is obvious. Listed are classics of the bistro<br />

kitchen as well as more eccentric creations of the haute<br />

cuisine. The classics are nevertheless not run of the mill.<br />

The Chiggeri hamburger on homemade bread delivers<br />

with the best beef and Italian ingredients such as burrata<br />

and mortadella. The lasagne is an old family recipe handed<br />

down by Sandra’s grandmother and made completely<br />

without béchamel. “We don’t do your typical Italian, Portuguese,<br />

or similar country kitchen. Instead, we incorporate<br />

ideas and stimulations from our travels across the<br />

world. The dishes on our menu are ones, which we loved<br />

the taste of and which we have redefined in our own way,<br />

and which have withstood the rigorous family testing.”<br />

Products used are, as far as possible,<br />

local and seasonal, and everything<br />

is cooked fresh each day. “This fresh<br />

kitchen also allows us to adapt the<br />

menu to the season every three<br />

months,” says Joao. The joy in experimentation shows in<br />

creations such as sashimi of red tuna with foie gras – now<br />

a staple on Chiggeri’s menu.<br />

Sandra’s father Dino Totaro is also part of the team. He<br />

is responsible for the wine menu of the restaurant. As the<br />

treasurer of the ALS (Association Luxembourgeoise des<br />

Sommeliers) the role fits him like a glove. In 2017 Chiggeri<br />

was awarded restaurant with the best wine menu in<br />

Luxembourg. For guests, it’s useful to see the labelling of<br />

the wines according to categories of price. “That helps to<br />

discretely advise guests when choosing wines; making<br />

sure they fit the food and the budget.”<br />

In summer, Chiggeri’s terrace – one of the most beautiful<br />

in the city – offers the perfect place for a relaxing dining<br />

experience with a breath-taking view across the valley of<br />

the city to Kirchberg. “We have no tourists marching past,<br />

which means that guests can enjoy a calm and beautiful<br />

summer’s day without feeling disturbed by traffic noise.”<br />

Much loved by guests are also the “Dinner in the dark”<br />

events. Every Thursday, they offer a meal for up to twelve<br />

people in complete darkness. A bite-size four-course<br />

menu is served with appropriate wines. “It’s astonishing<br />

to see the dynamics in a mixed group of guests when one<br />

of their senses is removed.” On account of its popularity,<br />

reservation is necessary.<br />

RESTAURANT CHIGGERI<br />

15, Rue du Nord — L-2229 Luxembourg<br />

Tel. +352 / 22 99 36<br />

chiggeri.lu<br />

86<br />

<strong>KACHEN</strong> No.21 | WINTER 19

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