KACHEN #21 (Winter 2019) English edition
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RESTAURANT PORTRAIT<br />
WINDS OF CHANGE<br />
WITH RESTAURANT CHIGGERI<br />
Young, creative and engaged – and yet willing preserve<br />
the good qualities of the old – that’s what Joao and Sandra<br />
Ramos stand for. In March 2017 they took over the traditional<br />
restaurant Chiggeri in the Rue du Nord. What has<br />
not changed is the decor of the historic city palace. Time<br />
seems to have stood still in the labyrinthine former private<br />
home of the Feltes family. There are original wood<br />
floors, unsymmetrical and occasionally small rooms, and<br />
a steep and narrow wooden staircase. Exhausting for the<br />
service but certainly charming. Every room, from the conservatory<br />
to the private salon to the romantic bay with a<br />
view on Kirchberg, has its own special atmosphere. “We<br />
have not changed the existing décor,” says Sandra Ramos,<br />
“instead, we changed the philosophy and the menu.” Previously,<br />
the brasserie downstairs and<br />
the gastronomic restaurant on the<br />
first floor were separate but that’s not<br />
the case anymore. “All our guests get<br />
the same food and wine menu and<br />
can then decide if they would rather try our bistro menu or<br />
the gastronomic choice. They are free to eat a hamburger<br />
at our most beautiful table.”<br />
“The dishes on our menu<br />
are ones which have withstood<br />
the rigorous family testing.”<br />
The menu is small but select. The creative side of chef<br />
Joao Ramos is obvious. Listed are classics of the bistro<br />
kitchen as well as more eccentric creations of the haute<br />
cuisine. The classics are nevertheless not run of the mill.<br />
The Chiggeri hamburger on homemade bread delivers<br />
with the best beef and Italian ingredients such as burrata<br />
and mortadella. The lasagne is an old family recipe handed<br />
down by Sandra’s grandmother and made completely<br />
without béchamel. “We don’t do your typical Italian, Portuguese,<br />
or similar country kitchen. Instead, we incorporate<br />
ideas and stimulations from our travels across the<br />
world. The dishes on our menu are ones, which we loved<br />
the taste of and which we have redefined in our own way,<br />
and which have withstood the rigorous family testing.”<br />
Products used are, as far as possible,<br />
local and seasonal, and everything<br />
is cooked fresh each day. “This fresh<br />
kitchen also allows us to adapt the<br />
menu to the season every three<br />
months,” says Joao. The joy in experimentation shows in<br />
creations such as sashimi of red tuna with foie gras – now<br />
a staple on Chiggeri’s menu.<br />
Sandra’s father Dino Totaro is also part of the team. He<br />
is responsible for the wine menu of the restaurant. As the<br />
treasurer of the ALS (Association Luxembourgeoise des<br />
Sommeliers) the role fits him like a glove. In 2017 Chiggeri<br />
was awarded restaurant with the best wine menu in<br />
Luxembourg. For guests, it’s useful to see the labelling of<br />
the wines according to categories of price. “That helps to<br />
discretely advise guests when choosing wines; making<br />
sure they fit the food and the budget.”<br />
In summer, Chiggeri’s terrace – one of the most beautiful<br />
in the city – offers the perfect place for a relaxing dining<br />
experience with a breath-taking view across the valley of<br />
the city to Kirchberg. “We have no tourists marching past,<br />
which means that guests can enjoy a calm and beautiful<br />
summer’s day without feeling disturbed by traffic noise.”<br />
Much loved by guests are also the “Dinner in the dark”<br />
events. Every Thursday, they offer a meal for up to twelve<br />
people in complete darkness. A bite-size four-course<br />
menu is served with appropriate wines. “It’s astonishing<br />
to see the dynamics in a mixed group of guests when one<br />
of their senses is removed.” On account of its popularity,<br />
reservation is necessary.<br />
RESTAURANT CHIGGERI<br />
15, Rue du Nord — L-2229 Luxembourg<br />
Tel. +352 / 22 99 36<br />
chiggeri.lu<br />
86<br />
<strong>KACHEN</strong> No.21 | WINTER 19