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THE WEEKENDER<br />

(aka the Bird’s Nest) among its<br />

works, is headquartered here.<br />

Many of its ideas have been<br />

realized around the city, the<br />

latest of which will be unveiled<br />

this April when its mammoth<br />

makeover of the Messe Basel<br />

exhibition site, which is as big<br />

as a suburb, is completed in<br />

time for the 2013 Baselworld<br />

watch and jewelry fair.<br />

The art tour<br />

Each year over six days in<br />

the second week of June the<br />

population of Basel grows by<br />

25%. The world’s largest art<br />

fair runs June 11–16, with the<br />

fi rst two days of Art Basel 2013<br />

set aside for VIPs. Book your<br />

fl ights and hotel rooms early.<br />

www.basel.artbasel.com<br />

The city’s most prestigious art<br />

museum, Fondation Beyeler,<br />

sits on the outskirts of town –<br />

not unlike Denmark’s Louisiana<br />

Museum – in a pastoral idyll<br />

populated by grazing cattle.<br />

This is precisely what the<br />

owners Ernst and Hildy Beyeler<br />

had in mind when they commissioned<br />

Renzo Piano, the<br />

Pritzker Prize-winning Italian<br />

architect, to build the museum<br />

in 1997. Natural light pours into<br />

this beautiful building through<br />

a glass ceiling. The new year<br />

sees a retrospective of the<br />

Swiss avant-gardist Ferdinand<br />

Hodler’s late works (January<br />

27-May 26). Admission: $25.<br />

Baselstrasse 101, Riehen.<br />

www.fondationbeyeler.ch<br />

One of Basel’s most important<br />

galleries, the Von Bartha<br />

Garage, owned by the family<br />

of the same name, stands right<br />

next door to a gas station<br />

at the streetcar stop Kannenfeldplatz<br />

in a former Saab<br />

workshop. Stefan von Bartha<br />

puts on fi ve major exhibitions<br />

of modern art here every year,<br />

most recently by Swedish<br />

conceptual artist Christian<br />

Andersson. “Lots of customers<br />

come in expecting to pay<br />

for a tank of gas. Instead they<br />

get a free art experience. It is<br />

important for Basel to have<br />

active galleries that can hold<br />

Museum Tinguely<br />

The tram in the old town<br />

their own internationally,”<br />

says Stefan, who rates Nicolas<br />

Krupp (Rosentalstrasse 28.<br />

www.nicolaskrupp.com) and<br />

Stampa (Spalenberg 2. www.<br />

stampa-galerie.ch) among the<br />

city’s other must-sees.<br />

Kannenfeldplatz 6.<br />

www.vonbartha.com<br />

The Museum Tinguely,<br />

designed by Switzerland’s<br />

own Mario Botta, stands on<br />

the banks of the Rhine. Jean<br />

Tinguely’s kinetic art sparks<br />

the imagination of children and<br />

adults alike – colorful works in<br />

which the artist communicates<br />

and interacts with the viewer,<br />

both seriously and ironically.<br />

“Art arises when machinery<br />

is set in motion,” Tinguely<br />

says, and wandering among<br />

his remarkable creations is to<br />

be fi lled with nostalgia for a<br />

time when machines oiled the<br />

wheels of progress. From the<br />

museum café you can watch<br />

swimmers being carried along<br />

by the strong currents of the<br />

Rhine, only to emerge a kilometer<br />

or so downstream which<br />

is a popular pastime in Basel.<br />

Admission: $15.<br />

Paul Sacher-Anlage 2.<br />

www.tinguely.ch<br />

Grand Hotel<br />

Les Trois Rois<br />

Once taken lightly, the comic is<br />

now recognized as an art form<br />

in its own right. The Cartoon<br />

Museum takes its subject –<br />

satirical art – deadly seriously,<br />

with an unrivaled collection<br />

ranging from caricatures to<br />

comic strips.<br />

Admission: $10.<br />

St. Alban-Vorstadt 28.<br />

www.cartoonmuseum.ch<br />

Kunstmuseum Basel became �<br />

100 DECEMBER 2012/JANUARY 2013 SCANORAMA

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