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CHEERS!<br />

The 2013 Michelin guide<br />

awarded stars to 13 UK pubs,<br />

including The Harwood Arms<br />

and the Sir Charles Napier.<br />

The Hand & Flowers is the<br />

only pub with two stars.<br />

* The Sir Charles Napier<br />

Chinnor, Oxfordshire<br />

www.sircharlesnapier.co.uk<br />

* The Harwood Arms<br />

Fulham, London<br />

www.harwoodarms.com<br />

** The Hand & Flowers<br />

Marlow, Buckinghamshire<br />

www.thehandandflowers.co.uk<br />

* The Pipe and Glass Inn<br />

South Dalton, East Yorkshire<br />

www.pipeandglass.co.uk<br />

* The Butchers Arms<br />

Eldersfield, Gloucestershire<br />

www.thebutchersarms.net<br />

* The Hinds Head<br />

Bray, Berkshire<br />

www.hindsheadbray.com<br />

* Red Lion<br />

East Chisenbury, Wiltshire<br />

www.redlionfreehouse.com<br />

* The Masons Arms<br />

Knowstone, Devon<br />

www.masonsarmsdevon.co.uk<br />

* The Black Swan<br />

Oldstead, North Yorkshire<br />

www.blackswanoldstead.co.uk<br />

* The Stagg Inn<br />

Titley, Herefordshire<br />

www.thestagg.co.uk<br />

* The Sportsman<br />

Whitstable, Kent<br />

www.thesportsmanseasalter.co.uk<br />

* The Nut Tree<br />

Murcott, Oxfordshire<br />

www.nuttreeinn.co.uk<br />

* The Pony & Trap<br />

Chew Magna, Somerset<br />

www.theponyandtrap.co.uk<br />

� GO TO LONDON SAS takes you to London. Book your trip<br />

at www.flysas.com or use your EuroBonus points. Round-trips<br />

to London start at 30,000 points from airports in Scandinavia<br />

and Finland. Taxes and fees apply, from €68.<br />

trilby hat and a touch of makeup, a man who looks<br />

like a Beat poet dressed all in black who regularly<br />

steps out for a hand-rolled cigarette. What’s totally<br />

unexpected is that in back there’s a lively Thai<br />

restaurant serving dishes such as chicken khao rad<br />

na (rice stir-fry with vegetables and gravy) and<br />

kaeng ped phed yang (roasted duck with red curry)<br />

in a room where orchids and tropical vines hang<br />

from the ceiling. It’s a wonderful juxtaposition of<br />

Thai and traditional – Bang-cockney? – but what<br />

robs The Churchill of its cigar is its own success.<br />

It’s simply too busy for our liking.<br />

The following afternoon we’re back in Clerkenwell.<br />

After a few wrong turns down narrow Dickensian<br />

streets, the Jerusalem Tavern appears like<br />

a stage set left over from the filming of Oliver! It<br />

dates from 1810 and once housed a watchmaker,<br />

hence the huge windows to let in as much light as<br />

possible. The interior is old and inviting, all dark<br />

gray stone and woodwork painted seaweed green,<br />

with engravings and decorative blue-and-white<br />

tiling on the walls. St. Peter’s Brewery from Suffolk<br />

owns the pub and makes the ales, including<br />

cream ale, organic bitter, grapefruit ale and even<br />

(a sign of the times) gluten-free ale. A sign headed<br />

“Serious Pig” lists ham and salami to nibble on,<br />

and there are sourdough sandwiches. Today’s special<br />

is sea bream. What more could you ask?<br />

The quiet is disturbed only by the slow ticking<br />

of an old clock and an American couple whose conversation<br />

ranges over presidential politics, British<br />

art and their shared love of Buffy the Vampire<br />

Slayer as they drink their pints of winter ale. In the<br />

front bar twentysomething Matt Higgins sits by<br />

the window reading The Economist over a pint of<br />

St. Peter’s mild. We strike up a conversation and in<br />

just a few words he sums up the simple pleasures<br />

of a pub.<br />

“I’m off work this week,” he says. “I’ve got my<br />

newspaper, I’ve got my beer. Life is grand.” �<br />

Lazing on a<br />

sunny afternoon:<br />

Enjoying a weekday<br />

pint at the<br />

Jerusalem Tavern<br />

SCANORAMA DECEMBER 2012/JANUARY 2013 67<br />

XXXXXX

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