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THE WEEKENDER<br />
the world’s first public art<br />
museum in 1661 when the city<br />
bought a large Renaissance<br />
collection from local attorney<br />
Basilius Amerbach. The 20thcentury<br />
is also well represented,<br />
from works by Picasso,<br />
Braque and Léger to expressionism<br />
and American art since<br />
the 1950s. Admission: $15.<br />
St. Alban-Graben 16.<br />
www.kunstmuseumbasel.ch<br />
The Museum für Gegenwartskunst<br />
is where the<br />
Kunstmuseum Basel keeps its<br />
21st-century pieces. When the<br />
Museum of Contemporary Art<br />
opened in 1980 it was the first<br />
in Europe dedicated exclusively<br />
to art from the 1960s onward,<br />
with paintings, sculptures,<br />
installations and video art by,<br />
among others, Joseph Beuys,<br />
Bruce Nauman, Rosemarie<br />
Trockel and Jeff Wall.<br />
Admission: $12.<br />
St. Alban-Rheinweg 60.<br />
www.kunstmuseumbasel.ch<br />
The architectural tour<br />
The old Sulzer-Burckhardt<br />
engineering works at Gundeldinger<br />
Feld is a must for fans<br />
of industrial design. Thanks<br />
to architecture firm Baubüro<br />
Insitu, factory buildings from<br />
the 1930s today house everything<br />
from cocktail bar-cumbistro<br />
Eo Ipso (www.eoipso.<br />
ch) and restaurant Blindekuh<br />
(www.blindekuh.ch) where<br />
you can eat in pitch darkness<br />
to microbrewery Unser Bier<br />
(www.unserbier.ch) and indoor<br />
climbing at Kletterhalle K7<br />
(www.kletterhalle7.ch).<br />
Jump off the Aesch streetcar<br />
at Ruchfeldstrasse for Schaulager,<br />
designed by Herzog & De<br />
Meuron. This is where pieces<br />
in the Emanuel Hoffmann<br />
Foundation collection are kept<br />
when they are not on show<br />
at Konstmuseum Basel or the<br />
Museum für Gegenwartskunst.<br />
The building looks like a gravel<br />
box that’s been kicked over,<br />
with the flaps pulled in and two<br />
Fondation Beyeler Kunstmuseum Basel<br />
giant screens built into them to<br />
display works in progress.<br />
Ruchfeldstrasse 19,<br />
Münchenstein .<br />
www.schaulager.org<br />
Where to eat<br />
Ever since the owners of Acqua<br />
Osteria brought the old power<br />
station at Binningerstrasse<br />
back to life eight years ago, this<br />
enormous dining room with<br />
exposed pipework, concrete<br />
walls and fairy light chandeliers<br />
has been a city favorite.<br />
Binningerstrasse 14.<br />
Tel: +41 61 564 66 66.<br />
www.acquabasilea.ch<br />
On the right bank of the<br />
Rhine, facing the Old Town,<br />
Krafft Basel is perfect for<br />
dining alfresco. This classic<br />
hotel – Hermann Hesse wrote<br />
Steppenwolf here – has become<br />
a local favorite, with the head<br />
chef, Roland Grünvogel, changing<br />
the lunch menu daily.<br />
Rheingasse 19.<br />
Tel: +41 61 690 91 30.<br />
www.krafftbasel.ch<br />
Where to stay<br />
One of the best hotels is the<br />
classic Grand Hotel Les Trois<br />
Rois (rooms from $535; Blumenrain<br />
8; Tel: +41 61 260 50<br />
50. www.lestroisrois.com). For<br />
artist/designer-inspired rooms,<br />
and an in-house theater, there’s<br />
Hotel der Teufelhof (rooms<br />
from $165; Leonhardsgraben<br />
47-49; Tel: +41 61 261 10 10.<br />
www.teufelhof.ch). If you’re in<br />
town on business, or just want<br />
something straightforward and<br />
central, Hotel Victoria (rooms<br />
from $290; Centralbahnplatz 3:<br />
Tel: +41 61 270 70 70.<br />
www.balehotels.ch) is a smart<br />
choice.<br />
� GO TO BASEL SAS takes you to<br />
Zürich. Book your trip at www.flysas.<br />
com or use your EuroBonus points.<br />
Round-trips to Basel start at 30,000<br />
points from airports in Scandinavia<br />
and Finland. Taxes and fees apply,<br />
from €56<br />
102 DECEMBER 2012/JANUARY 2013 SCANORAMA
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